Goa to me is nothing short of a Temple. I have actually lost count of the number of times I have landed here and continue to have a strong urge to come back. It brings out the best of romance and spirituality in me and I return to my concrete jungle rejuvenated. I am an explorer of new locations without looking back, but Goa is the only exception for a reason beyond my comprehension!
All the Bollywood buffs will agree that the film “Dil Chahta Hai” has a special corner in our heart. Generation X was breaking free of the stereotypes of Indian society and their dreams have started to take wings. This movie was released a decade after Globalisation as economic prosperity started to show promise. Thus, the storyline stirred up an entire nation as they could relate to the characters in the film. Thankfully, Goa from being perceived as a Hippies paradise caught the attention of everyone as the film was extensively shot here. Without dwelling further into the film a dialogue spoken by Sameer stayed true to my heart till today. He remarked that they should visit Goa at least once a year. I was so inspired by this suggestion that I continue to follow it to date.
During my working days at Bangalore, a few of us had a once a quarter ritual to drive down to Goa. Now, I stay in Mumbai and prefer to fly as the youthful effervescence has vanished. The flight tickets also seem cheaper, though the only sign of prosperity is probably the receding hairline. This ease of travelling has ensured that I am able to keep my date with Goa once a year.
Writing about Goa is tough as thousands of tourists have crisscrossed the length and breadth of this land. Initially, I was contemplating writing about the secret islands on the coast or the villages on the backwater. But then I asked myself which is the single place in Goa that I love the most. Mentally I started to time travel and found myself in my twenties calling North Goa home, and now slowly migrating southward. But there is no doubt Reis Magos Fort has always been a permanent feature of my Goa trip. Thus writing about it came naturally.
Even a decade back there was hardly any visitor to this fort. On one side of the fort is the stunning view of the Mandovi river and on the other, the coast of Bardez. Recently, a new bridge has raised its head in Panjim over the Mandovi albeit not an eyesore yet. Thankfully, the Archaeological Survey of India and the Government started conservation of this fort. Therefore, it opened up the gates to tourists. Nowadays, I am not privy to the entire fort to myself, but I am happy that the tales of this fort will travel far and wide due to high footfall.
The Reis Magos fort was an outpost of Adil Shah of Bijapur. However, Afonso de Albuquerque the Governor of Portuguese defeated the Bijapur Sultanate in early 1510. This conquest was short-lived and lasted for a few months before they lost control. However, the Portuguese were not disheartened and came back stronger to finally re-conquer Goa by the end of 1510. The first area to come under Portuguese control was Ilhas, now known as Tiswadi. Then in 1543, they conquered Bardez, where they built this fort and a Church. Eventually, the Fort doubled up as a Jail and hospital too.
The Portuguese declared Absolute Monarchy in Goa. This lead to unhindered forceful conversion or persecution of the Locals. In 1822, Lisbon moved to Limited Monarchy and Goa was represented in the Parliament in 1833. Finally, in 1910 The Republic of Portugal was formed and the Church and State were finally separated. The local Hindus finally got their political and religious freedom back
During my last visit, I found a new Museum that helped me walk through the memory lane of the Fort. I was elated to find a dedicated section set up for Late Mario de Miranda, a famous cartoonist from Goa. The museum also enlightened me of key personalities whose contributions to Goa are invaluable. Hence I am taking the opportunity to pay tribute to these legends in my blog. They not only valued our land and culture but above all our people
- Bernardo Peres De Silva– He represented Goa in the Parliament of Portugal in 1822 and became the Governor-General of Goa and resumed charge in 1835
- Francisco Luis Gomes– He was a liberal and a Member of Parliament in 1860. Quoting him as written by him on 5th January 1861. “I was born in India, the cradle of poetry, philosophy and history, today its Tomb. I belonged to that Race, which wrote the Mahabharata and invented Chess- two conceptions that bear in them the eternal and the infinite “
- Tristao de Braganca Cunha– He was the father of Goan nationalism. In 1926, he founded Goa Congress an affiliation of The Indian National Congress. In 1946, he was arrested and holed up in Aguada Fort. He was sentenced to 8 years of rigorous imprisonment. After that, he was deported to Lisbon but thankfully was released after 2 years under Amnesty. He returned back to India and started Goa Action Committee in Mumbai. He continued to write in its periodical “Azad Gomes” till he passed away in 1958. Salute Sir!
- Menezes Braganza: He was the man who showed that the Pen is mightier than the sword. Through his writing, he was able to garner hope and nationalism in the mind of young educated Goans
- Dr Manohar Lohia: Dr Lohia was a strong leader and activist in India’s independence movement. He launched the movement of Civil Liberties in Margao.
We know India gained Independence from the British on 15th August 1947, however, the Portuguese stayed back for another 14 long years. In November 1961, there were two acts of aggression by the Portuguese soldiers at the Anjadip Islands, across the coast of Karwar. They indiscriminately and without any provocation fired at a Merchant ship and local fishermen. The Indian Navy immediately deputed INS Rajput and INS Kirpan to patrol the water till 1st December 1961. The operation was called Operation Chutney where INS Betwa and Beas were used to patrolling off the coast of Goa in a linear manner.
At that time the Defense Minister was Mr VK Krishnamenon. He convinced Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru that the time was ripe to liberate Goa. Thus, Major General KP Candeth was made in charge of the Operation and “Operation Vijay“ was born.
Strategically there were only two routes chosen for the attack. The East route through Anmode-Mollem-Ponda and the second one from the Northern route through Dodamarg- Assnora-Bicholim. Along with this, a small group entered through South (Karwar) which was to act as a deception strategy. Within a day Goa was liberated on 19th December 1961, without any resistance from the Portuguese. The first Military governor of Goa of independent India was Major General Candeth
I hope you would stop by this beautiful Fort in Goa on your next trip. The fort emanates an abundance dose of natural beauty and now history the Goa. It is a disgrace if we do not know this history as an Indian. Just imagine it took the Goans 14 more years to finally get Independence. Trust me, as you bid farewell to this Fort you will go out with your head held high as an Indian and thus your trip will be more enriching and enlighting
There is various type of accommodation available in Sinquerim which are a short ride to Reis Magos and Aguada Lighthouse. Importantly, the Candolim road towards Calangute will allow you to stop and have great food and beverages for Lunch and Dinner.
| Luxury Stay | Mid- Range | Budgeted |
| Taj Holiday Village Resort & Spa– Rs 12 K onwards Taj Aguada Resort and Spa: Rs 12K onwards- My all-time favourite The view of the sea and the watchpoints of the Aguada fort makes this place so unique. | Aldeia Santa Rita– Rs 8 K onwards. In Candolim built in style as a Portuguese villa Aguada Anchorage– Rs 7 K onwards 4 star Villa Resort. 600 metres from the Aguada fort SinQ Prive- Rs 6K onwards | Hangover Resort- Rs 2.5K onwards Lui beach Resort-Rs 2.5K onwards |
Point to note:
- Goa is hot and humid thus wear comfortable cotton clothing because you will sweat
- Please do not forget to carry a Hat, Sunglass and Sunblock and Deodorant
- The trek is pretty easy unlike most of the forts in India. However, sports shoes can be worn for better comfort
- Vehicles will not be allowed to the Fort entrance. Parking is available on the main road beside the ticket counter. The remaining journey of 150 metres to be covered on foot
- Entry ticket is Rs 50/- per Adult
I sincerely hope that you will love Reis Magos as much I do and will share your experience in the comment box below.
I can never claim I know Goa more than the locals, but I can surely say I love it at par and probably worship it more!
