Versão portuguesa aqui.

GPS 41.69675120437789, -8.019284578381937

In Frades, a place in the parish of Ruivães, the force of nature is broken by the centuries-old Misarela Bridge, which rises more than 15 meters over the bed of the Rabagão river. The dense vegetation, the vertiginous waterfalls, the numerous potholes of giants and the imposing rock formations shaped by the force of the water that flows to Cávado, present a breathtaking natural landscape.

Built in the Middle Ages, at the bottom of a gorge but in complete harmony with the surrounding nature, Misarela Bridge features an arch measuring more than 10 meters solidly founded on granite cliffs. Of estimated heritage value, this bold architectural work has been classified as a Public Interest Property since 1958.

This monument is linked to various pagan beliefs and centuries-old legends that have survived the passage of time.

Popularly known as the “Devil's Bridge”, this construction is associated with a legend that claimed it was built by the devil. In very ancient times, says the narrative, a criminal on the run, pursued by the authorities, upon reaching the bank of the Rabagão river, desperate, invoked the devil, asking him for help to cross the river and pass safely to the other bank. In return, the criminal will have offered his soul to the devil. Well, an old and popular saying states that, given the opportunity, “the devil catches with mistletoe”. Accepting the fact, the mafarrico made a bridge appear, ordering the criminal to cross it without looking back. Arriving on the other side of the river, the devil made the bridge disappear, helping the criminal to escape the authorities. Some years later, on a certain day, death knocked on the door of the former criminal, now dying, announcing to him: “I come to look for you, soul of the devil”. Saying he was sorry, the terrified man asked for help, sending for a priest with the reputation of a saint to give him the last sacraments and break the old pact with the devil. Informed of the supplication, the zealous priest, after putting the Christian ritual in his pocket and the holy water in the hyssop, mounts his horse and leaves quickly to help the penitent. However, when he reaches the bank of the river, he finds that there is no passage in the place where the devil, in times past, would have represented a bridge.

Worried about the difficulty but in a hurry to fulfill the mission he was imbued with, the diligent priest, raising his arms high and looking at the dark sky, asked for divine help and uttered: “By God of the pure waters of Rabagão or by the devil of the black stones, let a stone bridge appear here.” In this, he sees the dark silhouette of the devil on the other bank and, fearless, he asks: “Is that you, Satan?”. Getting no response, the priest, gaining new courage, without hesitation, roars: “Vade retro!”. Then, taking the hyssop, he sprinkled the holy water he was carrying with him towards the other bank and, almost immediately, he sees an arched bridge appear based on the huge rocks of the banks, materializing the curve formed by the holy water thrown over the river. Upon envisioning such a feat, the humble priest makes the sign of the cross and pronounces the words of exorcism while listening to Lucifer's bestial roars. The atmospheric blackness is invaded by an enormous smell of sulfur that hangs in the air and, in this, the priest hears a great rumble at the bottom of the waters of Rabagão. More relieved, towards the deep waters, he shouts: “Blast you devil, this soul is not yours”. After giving thanks for the miracle, he went on his way and successfully helped the repentant dying man. Since then, Ponte da Misarela has been known as a magic bridge, the devil's bridge or the bridge of virtue.

According to Fr. José Carlos Alves Vieira, “This villa was crossed by a Roman road that, passing through Misarella, where there is a bridge of the same construction, led to Braga. In Misarella, on the edge of this parish of Ruivães, there is a rock that the action of the waters has shaped like a pulpit, known among the common people as the devil's pulpit. The people, always disposed and affected by prejudices, have the belief that the devil preaches there at midnight.

It is also a general belief that when women suffer consecutive miscarriages, they are prevented by baptizing the children in the mother's womb during the period of pregnancy. Baptism consists of the following: The mother-to-be, at the early hours of the morning, occupies the end of the bridge that is on the side of the place where she lives; there awaits any passerby who passes, in the opposite direction. This one goes to collect water from the river that flows below and, making a cross with his right hand, proceeds to the baptism of the germinating fetus and becomes its godfather” and they uttered the following spiel:

I baptize you by the power of God and the Virgin Mary! Our Father and Hail Mary! If you are a girl (girl) You will be a lady; If you are a boy You will be Gervás (Gervásio).

In addition to the tourist postcard presented here, we must remember that the Misarela Bridge was witness to an important landmark in the History of Portugal, as it was the scene of a bloody battle between Napoleon's army and the Luso-British troops during the second French Invasion.

In May 1809, Soult's army, installed in Porto and under an imminent threat of attack by Allied troops led by General Wellesley, decides to abandon the city and flee towards Spain, taking only its men, some animals and essential for their survival. With the main itineraries cut off in order to block the march of the French troops, Soult opts for the winding paths of Serra da Cabreira to reach Montalegre. On the 15th of May, the invaders entered Salamonde and on the 16th they were harassed on the Ponte da Misarela, a place where many French soldiers tragically lost their lives, as described by Carlos de Azeredo in his work “Here they did not pass – The fatal error of Napoleon”: When the thunder of artillery was heard from the rear and enough rifle fire, the immobilized troops, unable to maneuver to defend themselves, and feeling completely defenseless, fell into panic. Many men, still on the path, tried to advance at all costs, pushing the comrades in front, trampling each other (...) in their eagerness to escape a terrible situation, they threw away weapons and equipment; the poor starved or unshod animals were slaughtered or thrown down the ravines, (...) many men on the bridge were thrown into the abyss by the crush and confusion.”

There are echoes of this fact in the popular songbook:

“Cry, girls of France, Cry for your husbands, On the bridge of Misarela there were more dead than alive!”

The Misarela bridge and its natural surroundings are undoubtedly a mythical, magical and historic place.