Planning and Tips: Jökulsárhlaup (Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi), Northeast Iceland

The Jökulsárhlaup (a route named after a foot race held here annually along Jökulsárgljúfur ) is an exceptional one-way overnight hike stretching 34 km from Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi Canyon in northeast Iceland.  It follows the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, with fascinating volcanic landforms on the water’s edge and views across and into the canyon.

On the first day, a short scramble with a rope is required for the route in the canyon, but it isn’t high or exposed. If you don’t wish to scramble down, there is an alternate path that follows the clifftop, which would offer equally wonderful views, and which would be preferable in the shoulder season.

Hiker sitting on rocky outcrop looking across deep gorge with fast flowing river  and mountain range in background

On the second day, there are gobsmacking views into the 1.5km wide Ásbyrgi Canyon with its 100m vertical walls.

It’s also worth exploring inside Ásbyrgi Canyon if you have time for some of the shorter hikes (map here).

Transport

Because the walk is one way, with your own car you’ll need shuttle transport either from the start (Dettifoss) or end (Ásbyrgi) of the walk.  If you are bussing, contact the visitor information centre for options.

Although roads travel down both the eastern and western sides of the river to Dettifoss and beyond, the walk starts from the western side. You can leave your hire car by the visitor centre – this is commonly done – and catch a bus to Dettifoss. We were shuttled to Dettifoss by Nordic Natura Cabins. Contact the visitor centre for current transport options.

Accommodation

The campground behind the visitor centre is a good place to stay the night before you start (book sites ahead), and a small shop in town has modest supplies.  There is also a very basic hiker’s campground near Dettifoss. The pleasant grassy campground at Vesturdalur has a toilet and water.

Tents in open grassy camping area surrounded by shrubs with rocky escarpment in the background

The campsite behind the visitor centre at Ásbyrgi.

It makes for an easy pick up point for transport to Dettifoss.

After our walk, we stayed at the Nordic Natura Cabins a few minute’s drive from Ásbyrgi.

Double bed inside small modern chalet with backpacks at foor of bed.

We were looking forward to a proper bed!

The cabin was expensive but wonderfully comfortable and well equipped: a special treat after several weeks in the tent.

Maps and Hike Information

The total hike covers 34 km over two days with a modest elevation gain of 250m, and a descent of 500m if you’re walking from Dettifoss north to to Ásbyrgi. The Visitor Centre at Ásbyrgi had a lot of good information on the area.

We followed the conventional route which splits the two days thus:

  • Day 1, Dettifoss - Vesturdalur

    • Distance 20km (12.5 miles)

    • Ascent 150m (490ft)

    • Descent 350m (1150ft)

The main river, its waterfalls and steep canyon create many contrasts and highlights on Day 1.

 and

  • Day 2 Vesturdalur- Ásbyrgi

    • 14 km (8.5 miles)

    • Ascent 100m (330ft)

    • Descent 150m (490 ft)

Amazing geological formations are a feature of Day 2

You can download this 1:50,000 map map from the park web site. It is sufficient for hiking the route.

 

The walk is part of the Vatnajökull National Park and an excellent web page includes a good map of the hike, useful information about the park and getting there, along with accommodation options. There are also plenty of short walks in the area, so it’s worth checking the park web page and the map of the short walks.

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Day 1: Dettifoss - Vesturdalur