For over six hundred years, a series of kings ruled Portugal — but a single town, Óbidos, was ruled by the queens.

Here’s the quick historical summary: In 1210, Queen Urraca received the town of Óbidos as a gift from husband, King Alfonso II. Then, in a very odd case of regifting, King Dinis gave the town to his new bride, Queen Isabel, as a wedding present. The next king in power gifted Óbidos to his queen, and so on throughout the centuries. The queens acted as patrons and sometimes even helped direct the town’s development. So it’s an unusual and interesting place, and it’s small enough that you can visit it in just a few hours.

There’s only one way in through the castle walls; you enter the town via the Porta da Vila. This main gate was once just a large Gothic rectangle, but In the 1700s, an oratory with set of azulejo tiles was added to the upper half.

Once you’re through the gate, there’s a street ahead of you — but we’ll get to that later (unless you’re hungry and need to get straight to a restaurant). Instead, for starters, keep a look out for a steep set of stairs to your left. Go up! You’ll get to the Óbidos wall, which circles the town.

With a bit of daring, you can walk nearly all the way around the wall, which was built in the 1100s and shored up significantly a century and a half later. You can also climb a number of the turrets that still line the way. If you go all the way up, you’ll have a great view out over both the town …

… and the countryside beyond.

Note that while you can walk almost all the way down to the medieval castle (Castelo de Óbidos) at the end of the wall …

… it’s been turned into a private hotel, so your chances to explore are limited.

That said, it’s still fun to wander around near the castle and admire the architecture.

Once you’ve descended from the wall, it’s time to do a bit of shopping. You’ll have a number of options, but make sure not to miss the fantastic Casa da Buganvília – Óbidos Market (check out their upstairs art gallery) and the very different but equally spectacular Livraria do Mercado.

Óbidos is a very literary town — there’s even a bookstore, Livraria de Santiago, in a space that used to be the 1765 Santiago Church.

If you want a taste of something sweet wile you’re shopping, stop for a shot of ginga (the local sour cherry liqueur) or one of the giant chocolate bombs.

Next, dive into the various side streets …

… to walk along the cobblestones and ancient buildings.

I also spent time admiring the many different kinds of doors (and door knockers).

After a bit of aimless exploration, it’s time to visit St. Maty’s Square …

… and the 12th century St. Mary’s Church, which was upgraded in the 16th and 17th century with beautiful paintings and azulejo tiles.

Immediately across the street from the church, stop in for tea and a snack at Capinha d’Óbidos — it’s a magnificent bakery.

As you’re on your way out of town, swing by Saint Peter’s Square, where you can see the town hall, a small chapel (no longer in religious use), and a 13th century-church that was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake.

Óbidos is only an hour and twenty minutes from Lisbon by car, making it a popular destination for day trippers and tour buses alike. This can make it a really crowded spot, especially on weekends. It’s also worth noting that so many of the buildings here cater to tourists that you don’t really feel like you’re visiting an authentic Portuguese village — it’s more like you’re seeing cool old buildings preserved in time.

All of that said, Óbidos is still attractive and delightful, and I’m really glad I took half a day to visit. It’s a beautiful town!