What are moules marinières?
A very simple meal that takes just a few minutes to cook, moules marinières is a French dish of mussels in their shells, cooked in white wine, butter, shallots, garlic, and parsley. It is a classic example of the cuisine of Normandy, where it originated.
Moules marinières may be served as an appetizer or main course, and can be accompanied by a variety of sides but most commonly it is served with crusty bread.
When served with French fries, it’s known as the famous Belgian dish, moules frites.
What is the origin of moules marinières?
The dish is said to have originated in the Vendée, where, it’s said, in 1235, an Irishman by the name of Patrick Walton, was shipwrecked in the Bay of Aiguillon, and taught the locals how to grow mussels on submerged wooden pilings, called bouchots.
From there it was but a short step to experimenting with local ingredients, and developing the dish that is now famous throughout France and Belgium.
The people of Charente, however, claim that they have been growing mussels on bouchots (or “bouchaux”) since the 10th century, and that moules marinières is actually a Charentaise invention, named for a local style of long blouse, la marinière.
It is entirely likely though, that this dish could have developed anywhere along the Western coast of France. Or even Belgium or the Netherlands.
In fact, from Brest to The Hague, many have laid claim to its invention at some time or another, and the most reasonable explanation is that the origins of such a simple dish has quite simply been lost in the mists of time.
Moules marinières became a popular meal among the working class, and they were later adopted by the wealthiest when they began appearing on restaurant menus in the 19th century.
They became one of France’s national dishes in the 20th century, and have since gained popularity in many other countries around the world.
What are bouchots?
A bouchot is an oak or chestnut pile 6 to 20 feet (2 to 6 meters) long that is half-buried in sediment or sand, becoming wholly or partially exposed at low tide.
Rows of bouchots, generally aligned in the shape of Vs or Ws, and usually covered with netting or coils of rope, are laid out on the foreshores of coastal and freshwater areas for the purposes of growing mussels and other shellfish.
There are several theories as to the origin of this method of mussel farming.
According to one, Patrick Walton decided to stay in Aiguillon, and set about trying to catch seabirds in flight with allouret nets that he fixed to the shore on long stakes. What he found however, was that mussels soon began to cling to the stakes.
Taking this discovery, and developing it, Walton then joined the stakes with wattle hurdles, which in Gaelic were allegedly called “bout choat”. The locals’ version of this name was “bouchot”.
Another theory is that bouchot is the patois name for a type of submerged eel trap made of stakes and nets that’s used in the Poitevin marshes. It’s not clear however, whether these traps had any bearing on the farming, accidental or otherwise, of mussels.
Yet another is that the name, bouchot, comes from a system of nets hung on rows of stakes, forming v- and w-shaped funnels that led fish into traps. These stakes naturally attracted colonies of mussels, and so people began to deliberately farm them by “sowing” more stakes with nets covered in mussel larvae, rather than wait for it to happen by chance.
The best-known French mussel production areas are the Bay of Aiguillon and the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Mussels from the latter were the first seafood product to be awarded a Protected Designation of Origin (AOP). Since October 2020, the cultivation of bouchot mussels in Pénestin has been a recognized practice, and is listed in France’s Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Tips
- Choose fresh, live mussels for the best flavor.
- Remove all the byssus, commonly called the “beard”, and scrape off any chalky or hard bits from the shells.
- Ensure the mussels are thoroughly washed prior to cooking, that no grit or sand remains, and that the water runs clear. This will take several changes of cold water.
- Discard any mussels with cracked or broken shells, or ones which do not close when lightly tapped.
- Cook the mussels until they are just done, overcooked mussels will be tough and rubbery.
- Once cooked, discard any mussels that have not opened.
This recipe is validated by our culinary expert in French cuisine, Chef Simon. You can find Chef Simon on his website Chef Simon – Le Plaisir de Cuisiner.
Moules Marinières
Ingredients
- 8 lb mussels
- 2 cups white wine
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1 stalk celery , chopped
- 4 cloves garlic , peeled and pressed
- 7 oz. shallots , peeled and minced
- 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley , finely chopped
Equipment
- Dutch oven (or large pot)
- Skimmer
Instructions
- Carefully scrape the mussels and wash them 2 to 3 times.
- Drain them and keep them cool.
- In a large Dutch oven, heat the butter over medium heat and sauté the shallots for 1 minute, then add the garlic and celery and sauté over high heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
- Add the mussels and the white wine. Mix gently using a large flat skimmer.
- Cover and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring gently with the skimmer after 5 minutes of cooking.
- Stop cooking when all the mussels are open.
- Discard any unopened mussels.
- Remove the pot from the heat, add the parsley and mix gently.
- Serve with French fries.
Video
Sources
Larousse Gastronomique
Institut Paul Bocuse Gastronomique
The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan
Wikipedia (FR) – Moules Marinières
Wikipedia (FR) – Marinière (Sauce)
Wikipedia (EN) – Moules Frites
Wikipedia (EN) – Mussel
Wikipedia (FR) – Bouchot
Ouest France
Venetian-Brit Nicole has always lived a nomadic existence, and has had 56 homes around the world. As a chef, she has cooked in pro kitchens in Thailand, India, and Britain, and has consulted on menus for restaurants & hotels from Japan to the USA. Her work has been featured in some of the world’s best-known publications, including Better Homes & Gardens, Grazia, Femina, Stylecaster, Buzzfeed, and The Guardian. At yumsome.com, she shares stories and recipes from her travels.
Fluff says
Great recipe. I have never seen celery used in the dish but it works really well (my grandmother used to put fennel in it but that was a “provençal sacrilege” according to her Breton neighbour.
Don’t let a Breton catch you saying Vendée is in Normandy though. It’s in Bretagne.
Normands have their version of the dish of course, in which they use cider instead of wine. But the dish as it’s known more classically does indeed come from Bretagne. At least that’s what Bretons claim and they are so touchy about their history, it’s better not to contradict them 😉