Review: Aethos Ericeira

Why book Aethos is a fever dream for the aesthetes with a surfing habit, on a wild, windswept section of Portugal’s Atlantic coast.

Set the scene Aethos appears seemingly out of nowhere on a quiet coastal road—then you walk through the front doors and are dropped onto the pages of Architectural Digest. We’re talking creamy stone and light wood as the backbone; lusciously curved furniture, like boucle barrel chairs; and gorgeous coffee table books about surfing always an arm’s reach away. It joins a category of elevated surf boutiques—I’m reminded of Marram Montauk, in New York—though it’s perhaps the most design-forward approach I’ve seen. The crowd of young and middle-aged couples effortlessly supports the narrative, perusing 80-euro boardshorts in the lobby, and gilded in their tans as they motion for a drink by the pool.

The backstory Opened in September 2022, this is one of 6 locations for the brand (you’ll also find Aethos in places like Mallorca and Corsica, if that gives you a sense of the identity). Each fuse the beauty of the natural setting with luxurious interiors, and there’s an overarching feeling that wellness, and wellbeing, are a priority—sure, there may be indulgent, buttery seafood at the Onda restaurant, and fantastic cocktails are served around the clock, but there’s a calmness at Aethos that goes bone-deep. This particular location was once a farmhouse, then a rehab center, then simply abandoned by the time the hotel team got their hands on it. It feels more like it sprung from a dream, or at least an AI image generator (prompt: luxury surf hotel with trending 2020’s neutral-toned design). That’s all thanks to Lisbon-based Pedra Silva Arquitectos and Spanish studio Astet.

The rooms Design is consistent across room categories—with three room types, three suites, and a group option—but the real question is do you want an ocean view? (Yes.) We stayed in an ocean suite, from which you can enjoy sunset in your robe, perched in one of the two armchairs (the doors open wide, as well, for that ocean breeze). If you’re really just here for the surf? Book the surfer’s room, which has two bunk beds (4-person capacity) and a private terrace.

Food and drink It’s a 10-min drive to reach much else, so it’s fitting that the Onda restaurant will leave you wanting for little—it’s easy to eat there every night. Just make sure to book a reservation, because everyone else has the same plan. At dinner, don’t miss the oysters with sparkling wine vinagrette, nor the Portuguese à bolhão pato (clams steaming and fragrant with garlic and cilantro). Here’s hoping you wake up hungry for the massive daily breakfast, where açai bowls, local cheese, a bounty of breads, and more await.

The neighborhood/area Ericeira is a rocky, windy slice of coast—with surfing so good, it’s even been designated for protection as a World Surfing Reserve. You’re either here to surf (there’s something for every level, from first-time learners to serious shredders), or to soak up the laid-back Portuguese coastal towns that anchor the scene. It’s a quiet area, and Aethos is not in a town, but near, so plan to not only rent a car to get here, but rely on it to go to the beach, pop into local bakeries, and more. (If you want an adventure on foot, you can follow the trail down nearby cliffs to a beach, but it’s more of a scenic beach than for surfing or swimming.)

The service Laidback—never in your face—but always there when you need them.

Anything left to mention? I suggest giving yourself a day to get out and about in nearby beach towns—but don’t feel badly about staying on the grounds for an entire day either.