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Just off Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s central square, the Quadrilatero seduces all of the senses. Grocers deal out chunks of nutty, rich Parmigiano Reggiano cheese as samples to discerning shoppers, along with razor-thin slices of prosciutto di Parma that melt on the tongue. Wine bars pour effervescent glasses of local pignoletto wine alongside boards of warm focaccia, lightly salty-herby mortadella, and balsamic so delectable it tastes closer to dark-chocolate syrup than vinegar.
These flavors have been central to Bologna’s food heritage since the Middle Ages, when the Quadrilatero’s first purveyors opened shops. Today’s culinary spread is the 21st-century version of the same time-tested favorites that many consider to be Italy’s greatest foods, from savory cheeses and cured meats, to tortellini, ragú Bolognese, and lasagna (whose original 13th-century recipe is archived at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce.)
But food is just one aspect of beguiling Bologna, the central-Italian hub with nicknames alluding to its red bricks and left-leaning politics (La Rossa), its iconic towers (La Turrita), its food (La Grassa, the fat one), and its thousand-year-old university (La Dotta, the erudite). There is also an air of modernity here, owing to the youthful college-town vibes that keep community and culture at the forefront of life through bars, music, film, fine arts, and street art.
Via these storied streets, many of them covered by the city’s iconic porticoes, travelers can imagine life as it was centuries ago even as they sip spritzes and attend film and art openings. And while Rome, Venice, Milan, Florence, and other fantastic Italian destinations remained the focus of more than 75 million visitors to Italy last year, visiting less-touristed Bologna is a special delight.
An added bonus is that Bologna is a hub city for Italy’s stellar train and highway network, and central inside the Emilia-Romagna region. So travelers can zip in from most big cities, and add in some of the regional sights like Parma, Modena (famous for the Ferrari Museum and other marvelous history), and coastal Rimini.
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What to do in central Bologna
The essence of Bologna begins in the heart of the city, where Piazza Maggiore is a gathering place and time capsule. Dating to the year 1200, this broad rectangle is surrounded by top sights and splendid porticoes.
The Basilica di San Petronio steals the show, partly for its size, partly for its legendary façade that was left unfinished when a 16th-century pope decided it would outshine St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and decommissioned its construction. San Petronio’s interior is awe-strikingly vast, with marvelous and sometimes haunting murals adorning chapels, plus the world’s longest sundial (220 feet) installed by the astronomer Cassini in 1655. This is notably not the official city cathedral. That would be the Baroque Bologna Cathedral, one block over on Via dell'Indipendenza, where you’ll find some of the city’s most magnificent religious artworks.
On the piazza’s northwest corner is the city’s most famous meet-up point. Since 1566 the Fountain of Neptune has lorded over this space, himself a giant, muscular bronze god, surrounded by cherubs and four sea nymphs salaciously jetting water from their bosoms. (A prime example of Bologna’s refined irreverence.)
Once upon a time, wealthy Bologna was home to scores of towers built mainly by rich families as status symbols. Fewer than 20 towers remain, and this year another one became endangered. The leaning Garisenda Tower is now under scrutiny, and its neighbor, the Asinelli Tower, is temporarily closed to visitors eager to scale its stairs. Fortunately, the Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio) on the piazza recently opened to visitors, and is well worth the climb to see its 15th-century mechanism and vista.
While you’re in the piazza, don’t miss a peek inside the magnificent Salaborsa Library, an historic space sandwiched between a skylight and a glass floor, under which you’ll see ancient Roman ruins. On the other side of the piazza, join a tour to explore the Archiginnasio Palace, the first seat of the University of Bologna (founded 1088 A.D.), itself a living relic with a striking library, courtyard, and “anatomy theater” adorned with carved wooden spellati (skinned humans).
Portals to history, art, and film
Porticoes form the enduring vision of Bologna, and earned UNESCO World Heritage designation in 2021. Starting in the 12th century, they were built as a way for private building owners to extend their real estate over public walkways. Whether Renaissance, Gothic, Romanesque, or Modern, all 38.5 miles of them tell stories about each one’s original era, family, or neighborhood. You can see the oldest (wooden) Medieval portico on Via Marsala; the widest beside the Basilica of San Maria dei Servi; and the world’s longest on your 2.3-mile way up to the marvelous hilltop Sanctuary of San Luca.
The portico and building of the Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna, aka MAMbo, shows how the city celebrates historic architecture by redefining it. In this case, it’s the transformation of a former bakery into the city’s compelling contemporary-art institution.
In the same neighborhood, the city’s strong cinema history lives on at Cineteca Bologna, a film-restoration lab and foundation. In November 2023, the organization reopened the historic Cinema Modernissimo theater—“baptized” by Martin Scorsese. It also hosts annual events like the Il Cinema Ritrovato festival, marking its 37th year in June with huge outdoor film screenings on Piazza Maggiore; and fall’s queer film festival Gender Bender, in partnership with the LGBTQ+ community center/gallery/nightclub Cassero. (Side note: Nearby on Via Santa Croce, swing by small retail outpost Senape Vivaio Urbano, housing indie and LGBTQ-centric shops.)
Where to eat in Bologna
Locals of La Grassa know that no matter how full you feel, there’s always room for a little more of Bologna’s amazing food. Reserve well in advance for the most popular restaurants, like the award-laden Trattoria da Me. Open since 1937, the founder’s granddaughter is now running the show, perfecting slightly more creative versions of classic Bolognese cuisine, e.g. Chef Elisa Rusconi’s tantalizing 12-hour ragú (over tagliatelle, of course), and agnolotti filled with braised veal, served with gravy and a Lambrusco reduction.
The homespun atmosphere at Trattoria La Montanara feels like dining with family, with a compact menu of spectacular classics, including the rich tortellini en brodo (in broth, a Bolognese standard dish) and unforgettable baked green lasagna. Compare its local fare with handmade pastas and slow-cooked meats of Ristorante Da Cesari, a rustic fine-dining restaurant, family run since 1955.
Far more contemporary dining strikes at Ahimè, which fills its daring menu with seasonal produce and meats from sustainable farms. Here you might find a spaghettini dish with coconut and curry, or a pumpkin ravioli with apricot vinegar. Similarly but more classic is Il Rovescio, a warm dining experience that curates its menu based on the daily organic produce available, mastering vegetarian/vegan approaches to both classic and house-special dishes.
Lighter bites for breakfast and lunch are delightful at Forno Brisa, a “rebel bakery” with incredible breads, pastries, chocolate, and coffee across its five stores. Or pop into century-old Mercato delle Erbe indoor fresh market for a bite at one of its casual counter-serve or sit-down restaurants. The plazas outside the market become a fun nightlife hub each evening, with bars like Senza Nome, which happens to be run by hearing-impaired servers who use drink-image notecards as needed for orders.
Where to stay in Bologna
Sharing the portico of Bologna’s Medieval Museum is perhaps the city’s most distinctive accommodation, Casa Conoscenti. It’s a lovely boutique hotel inside a former 14th-century mansion, featuring only Italian-made furnishings and original frescoes in its three rooms. Its I Conoscenti restaurant and charming cocktail bar are well worth a visit too. If the hotel is booked up, consider the friendly Art Hotel Commercianti, an historic inn neighboring San Petronio.
The Majestic Grand Hotel across from the Bologna Cathedral offers the city’s highest luxury experience, attracting all manner of luminaries. A Leading Hotels of the World member, the Majestic Grand occupies a former archdiocesan palace, today with preserved original frescoes, polished suites, and fine dining. It also features a particularly unique glimpse of ancient Rome in the hotel basement, where a 10-meter stretch of the Via Emilia road is preserved and on view. It dates to 187 B.C., back when the Romans called this village “Bononia.” Layers of antiquity built up through a 21st-century enterprise—Bologna never stops feeling fascinating.
