gwp

Hello, we are visiting Porto in September and are thinking of checking out the Mercado de Bolhao. From their website, it looks like it's open, but some sites also suggest that it's closed for renovation (and there's something about the renovation hours on the site as well). Has anyone visited recently?

rialtogrl

I was there in June. I think it’s been reopened since last summer, for sure it is now.

Maribel

The new Time Out Porto market will open annexed to the São Bento train station sometime (??) in Nov. or Dec. It's a design of Pritzker prize winning architect Eduardo Souto de Moura.

https://www.theportugalnews.com/news...ST_EMAIL_ID%5D

maitaitom

We were there in October 2022. Pics below. From the trip report

"Our first stop was a building virtually around the corner. The Beaux-art style Mercado do Bolhão (Rua Formosa, 4000-214) opened originally in 1914 and has had many iterations since. Even before the building was constructed, merchants were selling their fruits and vegetables at this location. Due to building falling into near disrepair, in the 2000s there were plans to construct a luxury hotel with offices on the site, but the citizens of Porto had other ideas. In 2015 a refurbishment project commenced and knowing the four of us were going to be in town in October, just a few weeks before we arrived, the neoclassical building reopened for business. Timing baby! Tracy and I wandered the market, perusing the stalls full of fresh produce. It looked like it was winding down a bit at 4 p.m., but still there were still lots of people and the market had a good feel about it."

mjs

We were also there in June. Enjoyed it more than Times Out Lisbon. Bought some food goodies to take home. Also met a local attorney and his partner chef and local CNN reporter while dining on oysters and shared a reserve bottle of a Portuguese white wine. They directed us to their favorite seafood restaurants in Porto. We had a chance to eat at one and it was very good.

HelenaFatima

It is very much open. But kind of empty. Lost it's soul.

It closes on Sûndays. It's open all the other days from 8:00 to 20:00h.

It has a fountain. I influenced the existence of that fountain. In 2019 I was talking with one of the architects (just by chance) and he (an italian gentleman) was telling me he was in a rush because he had to defend the construction of a fountain in the "new" market, because he though it was a good idea, but everybody aproving the plan was against it. So I told him the origin of the word "Bolhão", and sent him by email some old documents that could help his idea of a fountain. Well, the fountain is there. I'm sorry, it is such a small stupid thing. I think it does not even work. It's at the south door area.

rialtogrl

HelenaFatima that is so nice that you helped to save the fountain - I admit I did not notice it! It was pretty quiet when I went a couple of times in June, mostly small food tours going around tasting things and not too many people buying from the produce tables. I bought lovely produce and some truly fantastic cheese. I enjoyed shopping there with a glass of white port to finish the experience. I was also underwhelmed by the Time Out market in Lisbon, it seemed to be only for tourists, which I expect the one in Porto will be too.

My favorite wine shop in Ribera closed when I was there, the landlord tripled their already expensive rent, but they have another shop in Mercado Bom Sucesso - a bit further afield but looks wonderful. I will go next time to check it out.. but as a local I am sure you know if it is worth it or not for people to make the journey.

dfourh

Feel the same way. The re-do is so sterile, the entire surrounding structure has been done in a way that has no life, no charm. Yes, you can tour the stalls and get nice cheeses and olives and things, but there is more character and charm and style at surrounding shops that have the same products. I stayed near the market in January, and did two stroll-throughs, and compared to markets of character other places (e.g., Padua, Loule', Budapest) it felt kind of austerely sad.

gwp

Many thanks to all for your replies -- we still plan to check it out, but sounds like it's lost some of its previous vibrant character.

dfourh

It makes a nice core center for the area, but the the entire area is a real hub of strolling, shops, natas fresh & hot direct from the oven, pastry places every 30 feet - - it's really lively tasty and dynamic - - you have chosen a delightful destination.

maitaitom

"... but the the entire area is a real hub of strolling, shops, natas fresh & hot direct from the oven, pastry places every 30 feet"

So true. I liked this store, which is about a one minute walk from Mercado do Bolhão. It's located in a 200-year-old building, and this store has been here for more than 100 years.

Maribel

I love that shop right across the street! And I love the branch of Manteigaria (for nata) in the vicinity.

HelenaFatima

Believe it or not, I was absolutely disappointed with Mercado Bom Sucesso when it reopened. I went there once, and then spent like 6 or more months without going there. The structure is astonishing (from the 50ties), the floor is absolutely lovely, but it used to be a market, now it is not. So at first I was very angry with that. Then, I accepted it. No market, no vendors (I used to buy my fish there), the promess was that it would be both things, a market and a place to eat and shop. That was a lie.

Then, I accepted. Things change. I bought the flowers I used in my 1st marriage there. No flowers are sold there now. My greatgrandmother had a place there to sell chickens (dead or alive). No more chickens there. My aunt was a butcher there: no more butchers. But on the other hand, the small "restaurants" are (most of them) tipically portuguese, and I can go there (and I do) just to have, in the same place, things that a few years ago I had to move to get. Like the piglet sandwish, the "Jesuitas" from "Casa Moura" (Casa Moura is originally from Santo Tirso, 30 kms from Porto, and yes, we used to do those 30 kms just for the "Jesuítas"), the eclairs from "Leitaria Quinta do Paço", among other things.

So, what can I say? The place changed, so I adapted. I like to go there. And the best fish soup in town (well, one of the best, the fish soup at the restaurant "Galo de Amarante", Rua das Taipas, might be even better) is there, at "Marisqueria".

Locals go there. The place is full of tourists (of course) but we, locals, still go there. In a different way, no longer to buy products, but just to eat.

rialtogrl

Obrigada HelenaFatima. When I go, I will try these items you have written about.