A Guide to Dettifoss and Selfoss in Iceland
Read our travel guide on visiting Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Includes tips on how to get there, when to go, where to stay, whether the east or west side of Dettifoss is better, and if it is worth it to walk to nearby Selfoss.
Another day in Iceland, another waterfall. Today, we do not have on our Iceland itinerary just some random waterfall without a name, but Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
Dettifoss in North Iceland is one of the must-visit places in this region, even when you are not a fan of stats or big headlines.
Still, the incredible amount of water flowing through here every second is for sure a cherry on the top.
Dettifoss is located on Jökulsá á Fjöllum River and is fed by the Vatnajökull Glacier, the largest ice cap in Europe.
Due to its beauty and power, it is rightfully among the top attractions on Ring Road.
Well, it is the truth you must drive off the Ring Road to reach Dettifoss, but the trip is absolutely worth your time.
Dettifoss, together with nearby Selfoss, is located on the so-called Diamond Circle, a scenic drive around some of the top attractions in Northeast Iceland.
You may have never heard of Diamond Circle as it is not as popular (yet) as the Golden Circle near Reykjavik, but we believe its time will come soon.
And this amazing waterfall is simply the brightest star in this area.
It is only up to you whether you decide to drive the whole circle, but one thing is sure, you cannot miss Dettifoss Waterfall.
In this travel guide, we share with you our personal experience of visiting Dettifoss and Selfoss Waterfall.
Why Visit Dettifoss
Sometimes, you need a proper story to convince another person that some tourist site is worth visiting.
Dettiffoss needs only a few words.
Rainbow. The thundering roar of the falls. Water spray. And last but not least, an incredible amount of water flowing down the canyon.
And more and more spray. It goes everywhere, and you should be prepared for it.
Dettifoss is often regarded as the most powerful waterfall in Europe, but the truth is that it doesn't matter that much.
You will hardly find a more stunning waterfall in Iceland, even though there is a lot to choose from and the competition never sleeps.
Dettifoss Facts
Do you like stats? It's hard to avoid this question when talking about Dettifoss.
Sometimes it is nice to know what you are looking at, and Dettifoss is quite a colossus.
It might remind you a bit of another famous waterfall, Gullfoss, only it's even bigger and louder.
Dettifoss is 100 meters wide, the drop is 44 meters high, and the average flow rate is 193 m³ per second which is quite hard to imagine from the comfort of your home.
Once you are standing on the edge of the canyon overlooking the falls, you will understand it is a lot.
Dettifoss: East or West Side
Which side of Dettifoss is better to visit to get the best views? East or west side? That is always the question.
The truth is you can see Dettifoss from two sides, and if you are a real waterfall lover who cannot decide which side is better, you might want to travel to both of them.
Quite frankly, we believe it's not worth it, but more about it in the next section.
West Side
Due to the fact that we had a 2WD campervan, we were short on time as we also wanted to explore Namafjall Hverir Geothermal Area and take a whale watching in Husavik, we have opted to visit the waterfall from the west side.
Even the photos of Dettifoss we had seen from both sides couldn't change our minds.
Quite honestly, visiting the west side of Dettifoss makes sense for the majority of travelers as it's simply far more accessible.
Therefore, this option is just much more practical and sensible.
We are pretty sure the waterfall is stunning from every angle, regardless of the side you choose.
Still, we had a feeling we could see it better as the water was falling in our direction here. Therefore, we had a better view of the drop, but that's subjective.
Yes, the disadvantage is that you get soaked to the bone. When you stand on the opposite side of the gorge, you are better protected from the mist.
Still, visiting Iceland's waterfalls would not be complete without feeling the spray.
East Side
The advantage of visiting Dettifoss from the east side is that the viewpoint is closer to the parking lot.
On the west side, it is one kilometer each way. The east parking is closer to the waterfall.
The biggest problem when visiting Dettifoss from the east side is the road, though.
Road 864 is unpaved, rough, and not open year-round. You will need a proper 4WD car and a lot of patience.
It is good to know that visiting the east and west sides is very time-consuming.
In our opinion, the west river bank is much better. Not for the views, but mostly from the practical point of view.
Still, if you decide to see the waterfall from the east, we believe you won't be disappointed.
The reward is that you will meet anyone barely there, so it's a great way to escape the crowds.
How to Get to Dettifoss Waterfall
The easiest and most convenient way to get to Dettifoss is by car. Whether you rent a car or campervan, getting to the waterfall will be a breeze.
As we've already mentioned, it is possible to visit Dettifoss from two sides.
Therefore it is obvious that two separate roads lead to the viewing platforms on each side of the canyon.
Road 862 and 864.
At first, we were not sure which one to take. As it turned out, the solution was more straightforward than we were expecting.
At the end of June, when we were in the Northeast part of Iceland, Road 864 was still closed because of the bad conditions.
Yes, it sometimes seems that echoes of winter in Iceland are neverending, so it made our decision pretty easy.
Road 862
Had both roads been open, we would have most likely still chosen Road 862 leading to the west riverbank anyways. Why?
Road 862 is completely paved all the way from Road 1 to the large Dettifoss parking lot.
It seems almost brand new, and it is usually open from April till December.
It might be open during the winter.
Still, it really depends on the conditions and snowfall, so when you travel outside the summer season, it is always better to contact one of the nearby Visitors Centers about the road closures.
Or check the official road website, which is frequently updated.
If you would like to travel further past Dettifoss, the road might be closed longer, depending largely on the weather that year.
In winter, it's better to have a 4WD car when driving around Iceland.
Most of the visitors arriving at Dettifoss take Road 862, which also explains why the parking lot is so huge.
If you decide to take Road 862, the drive to the waterfall parking lot (Dettifoss West Side Parking Lot on Google Maps) will take you approximately 25 minutes.
Parking is free of charge, and there is nothing but toilets.
If you continue driving up north, you will eventually arrive at Asbyrgi Canyon, another top attraction on Diamond Circle worth visiting.
There was ongoing construction during our visit in 2020, so we had to drive through Husavik to get there.
However, Road 862 seems to be fully paved now all the way from Road 1 to Road 85.
Road 864
On the other hand, road 864 is unpaved and in a much worse state.
Even though it seems you do not need 4WD (when you arrive from the Ring Road), the road is gravel, at times full of potholes, and you need to drive very slowly.
Road 864 is closed during wintertime because of the muddy and icy conditions, and it can last until the early summer.
Tours
If you do not have your own transport or want to get to Dettifoss out of season when the roads are closed, there is always an option to take a tour.
Most of the day tours depart either from Akureyri or from Myvatn and usually include similar stops.
Here you can reserve a popular Diamond Circle Tour that includes Dettifoss.
Public Transport
Unfortunately, there is no bus to Dettifoss.
So you're left only with hitchhiking, which is not something you probably want to try on your hard-earned vacation.
Given the distance from the Ring Road to Dettifoss, it is really better to get there either by car or with a tour.
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How to Visit Dettifoss
After we left East Fjords, Dettifoss was our first proper stop after a couple of hours of driving.
Dettifoss West Parking
About 25 kilometers before we reached Myvatn Area, we turned right onto Road 862 and stayed on it for about 21 kilometers.
Then we turned right onto Dettifoss Road, which took us to a West Dettifoss Parking.
When we arrived at the parking lot, we could not believe how huge it was.
At least compared to parking at Borgarfjordur Eystri and some other sites we had the opportunity to visit yesterday.
Apparently, Dettifoss is really a must-visit place in North Iceland. And we were soon about to find out why.
Dettifoss
We decided to visit both waterfalls as we wanted to get the most out of this trip.
Therefore, we were headed to Dettifoss first and then planned to come back to the parking lot via Selfoss waterfall.
The whole loop (it's more a lollipop trail than a circle) is 2.5 to 3 kilometers long, as it depends on whether you decide to go to the farther viewpoint.
If you're short on time and want to go only to Dettifoss and then return the same way back, it is one kilometer each way.
We believe that you should visit Selfoss as well, but understand that not everybody has that much time to see both places.
The trail to Dettifoss is very easy and flat, and you should tackle it in about 10 minutes.
The path sneaks through a landscape covered by huge boulders, which might give you an idea of how the area was formed.
Stick to the main trail, and don't turn right unless you want to visit Selfoss first.
We expected to hear the thundering roar of the waterfall from a distance, but the rock walls absorbed the sound, and we didn't hear it almost until we reached the edge of the canyon.
When we finally reached the main viewpoint, we could see Dettifoss in its all glory. And we could finally hear it.
The first impression will leave you in awe. And it will get even better.
From this point, we could see not only the waterfall but also an awesome rainbow, which is a common sight here when it is sunny.
Moreover, from here, you can do a short loop hike that will allow you to see the waterfall up close.
Therefore, we continued toward the waterfall and took the first right because we wanted to get as close to the waterfall as possible.
If you've brought a rain jacket or rain poncho, now is the time to put it on.
Then we descended to the waterfall and followed the path along the canyon's edge.
The trail is well-marked and clearly visible. You will get a chance to get very close to Dettifoss, so always stick to the designated path for your own safety.
It can be quite slippery in the lower rocky section, so be sure to pay attention to your steps.
At first, we were not sure we wanted to go to the lower viewpoint as it looked really covered in spray. In the end, it always ends up the same way. We cannot miss anything.
Yes, only from a lower viewpoint can you feel the true power of the waterfall.
On a nice sunny day, we believe the experience is worth it. Stay there only as long as necessary unless you want to change into dry clothes in the parking lot.
Once we climbed back to the top of the cliff, we continued to another viewpoint.
Dettifoss was one of the most stunning waterfalls we've visited in Iceland, so take your time, and explore it from every angle possible.
From the last viewing platform, we retraced our steps to the first viewpoint.
Selfoss
Then we decided to walk to Selfoss, the other waterfall worth visiting further upstream.
The 700-meter trail from Dettifoss to Selfoss is well-marked, so there is no way you can get lost here.
It is good to know that the edge of the gorge is eroding, so do not go too close to it.
It is even possible to see collapsed columns when you look down, which is something that should scare you off from getting too close.
Selfoss is a beautifully shaped waterfall, and it is really worth your time, especially if you do not want to return the same way.
You can say that it's not as impressive as Dettifoss, but we would say it looks different.
How Much Time Do I Need
The whole visit to Dettifoss should take you around two hours, including the walk to Selfoss and back.
Obviously, if you're short on time and walk quickly, an hour would be just fine.
Don't forget that it takes another 25 minutes just to get there from Ring Road and another 25 minutes to get back (or about 40 minutes to reach Road 85).
Entrance Fee
There is no etrance fee to Dettifoss Waterfall. Unlike Seljalandsfoss or Thingvellir, the parking is free as well.
When is the Best Time to Visit Dettifoss
Visiting Dettifoss and Selfoss in summer and winter is a completely different experience. It can be done in both seasons if the weather conditions are in your favor.
Still, the best time to visit Dettifoss is in summer.
Summer
Even though we are often advocates of visiting places in the shoulder season or even off-season to avoid the crowds, Dettifoss is a different story.
Dettifoss in the summer is at its best, and the chances are that at least one road leading to the waterfall will be open.
Yes, you can expect crowds, but we are pretty sure Dettifoss will live up to your expectations with the right mindset.
Unlike Skogafoss or Kirkjufellsfoss, Dettifoss is not a single viewpoint, so the chances are that the crowds tend to disperse, and the trail is relaxing.
Shoulder Season
Shoulder seasons like spring and autumn are also fine for visiting Dettifoss, but unexpected heavy rains or snowfalls can occur.
Even though it is unlikely, it can happen that roads will be closed.
When planning the trip, make sure that you take into account that days are significantly shorter during this period.
Winter
We saw photos of Dettifoss in winter, and it must be a truly extraordinary experience to visit this area during this period.
There is not that much water flowing compared to summer, but that's something you can live with.
The main disadvantage is that both roads to the waterfall can be closed.
Therefore, do not plan your entire day around Dettifoss and ask locals about the current situation or take a tour with a guaranteed departure.
Road conditions during the Icelandic winter are icy and slippery, so be prepared for that.
Road 862 is not serviced as regularly as Ring Road, so you never know what the conditions will be like.
The other problem is a bit less obvious but about equally important.
The path leading to the waterfall might be icy or under the snow. It can also be really windy there, making walking on a slippery trail dangerous.
Therefore, it is good to be well-prepared and have microspikes.
Winter in Iceland is a challenging time, and you should be super careful to stay safe.
For more information on this topic, read our post on the best time to visit Iceland.
Safety
It should go without saying that you should not go too close to the rim of the canyon in Dettifoss.
Always stay on the designated trail. The photos or whatever reasons you have for not sticking to the path are not worth the risk.
Also, the lower trail on the west side might be very icy in the winter, and we do not recommend you go there unless you are well-equipped or with an experienced guide.
The situation is slightly different at Selfoss.
Once you reach the waterfall, the trail is not that clearly marked, and it sorts of disappears.
Therefore, use your common sense while there.
It is an absolute no to get close to the Selfoss's rim in the winter when the danger of slipping is much greater.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
What to Pack for Dettifoss
Regardless of whether you take the trail only to Dettifoss or continue to Selfoss, you will still walk anything between 2 and 3 kilometers.
Therefore, you should wear proper outdoor clothing.
In the summer season, we recommend you wear rain pants and a rain jacket even when it is sunny, especially if you want to get close to the waterfall.
Bring a waterproof dry bag for your valuables. If you have a camera, also don't forget to have a photo cleaning kit with you.
Here we talk mainly about Dettifoss's west side because the spray on the lower trail goes everywhere.
We would have been soaked to the bone if we didn't have a rain poncho.
The trail was rocky and uneven, and we were glad that we wore our hiking boots.
Not only on the path leading to the waterfall but also later when walking on the damp lower trail because our boots had a much better grip than sneakers.
In the winter, wear a down jacket to stay nice and warm. The key to success is definitely in layers because the wind and cold in Iceland are unforgiving.
During the winter months, you might even need microspikes as the trail can be icy and covered in snow.
Where to Stay near Dettifoss
Dettifoss is located in the middle of nowhere, so there are not any hotels right at the waterfall. Therefore, you need to search for accommodation in the nearby towns and settlements.
Finding the right location to stay overnight mostly depends on your itinerary.
There are two guesthouses on Road 864 close to Ring Road, where you can stay if you want to visit the waterfall either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
Another option is to drive to nearby Myvatn, a popular tourist area with plenty of hotels.
As we mentioned above, we spent the night near Husavik as we wanted to take a whale-watching tour.
If you're doing the whole Diamond Circle, then you can find some accommodation at Asbyrgi near the intersection of Road 862 and 85.
If you travel Ring Road clockwise and still have plenty of time after visiting Dettifoss, you can head to Egilsstadir or even Borgarfjordur to see puffins in Iceland.
Don't forget that it is worth it to make your reservation well in advance, especially if you travel on a budget.
We've handpicked the best hotels in every location near Dettifoss.
Dettifoss | Grimstunga Guesthouse - This lovely guesthouse is only a short drive from the Dettifoss Waterfall, and due to its location, it might be the right place for you. This facility offers free private parking and a shared kitchen.
Asbyrgi | Dettifoss Guesthouse - Despite its name, this guesthouse is located in Asbyrgi. The most significant advantage of this accommodation is that it's only 25 kilometers north of Dettifoss and a short drive from Asbyrgi Canyon. It is an excellent pick for everyone who likes modernly renovated rooms and a stunning location.
Myvatn | Sel - Hotel Myvatn - Situated on the shores of Lake Myvatn, this modern hotel features clean rooms with amazing views and even provides its guests with a free sauna and hot tubs.
Husavik | Fosshotel Husavik - You can basically travel all around Iceland and stay only in this chain as they have hotels in every major tourist destination. Modern design, great services, and reasonable price is the reason why this hotel is so popular among local and international travelers.
Egilsstadir | Lyngas Guesthouse - Located in the very heart of Egilsstadir, this hostel offers nice and clean rooms for a very reasonable price. Egilsstadir is a transportation hub and a place to do shopping.
Camping
There are no campgrounds at Dettifoss. The nearest campsites can be found in Lake Myvatn and Asbyrgi.
If you don't mind more basic service, you can try your luck at Vesturdalur on Road 862 or Grimsstadir on Road 864.
Don't forget that overnight parking is not allowed in Dettifoss as well.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
