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Prior to Luis Pato's having 'tamed' the exceedingly tannic Baga grape, as the story goes, no one in Portugal or really anywhere thought that Baga could render a still red wine of joy and finesse. Bairrada, the grape's spiritual homeland, was a cold and rainy place that rendered tough-as-nails reds few could enjoy. But by pruning to create aeration, Luis could avert rot, and help his grapes mature into a much nobler form.
But could Baga ever be a wine for the masses, or would it remain an esoteric aside for geeks intent upon touring every corner of the vinous world?
Here, ladies and gentlemen, is all the proof you need. This is pretty much as good as Baga gets. Nearly 7 years of aging for the materials to soften, and it's just exquisite. This 2017 is nearing its ideal drinking window, and will already bring pleasure with a long decant. Imagine it as the Nebbiolo of the sea (even if truth be told, Ramisco merits that moniker even moreso). Others are eager to compare it to Pinot Noir.
Try this Bairrada with unsauced BBQ and hold on to your seat. I had it with brisket and smoky lamb banh mi from Red Hook's Hometown BBQ, and it was utterly magnificent. Handled the gentle Viet spice without blinking, offering up lovely saline rich cherry goodness for days, and with just enough tannic bite to remind you it's Baga and to keep it refreshing and lean -- and keep pulling you to try more.
This Baga grew in the gently sloping, well-drained limestone soils of the Panasquiera vineyard, north of Ois de Barrio. Totally destemmed, fermented in open wooden vats with native yeast, before aging in a blend of new and used Allier 650L casks for two years. Unfined, unfiltered; unpretentious, undervalued Portuguese magic.
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