On a night that celebrated the modern-day mavens of the silver screen (see Emma Stone, who won Best Actress in the much-celebrated Poor Things; Da’Vine Joy Randolph taking home the prize for Best Supporting Actress for The Holdovers), it was their glittering mid-century originators that the most elegant actresses turned to when looking for inspiration for their Oscars 2024 gowns. It would seem for the New Twenties, the sizzling silhouettes of yesteryear are the way to go for those looking to make a statement of seismic chic.
It began with Carey Mulligan. Swanning in the success surrounding her role in the most talked-about movie of the year, Saltburn, the British actress looked to Balenciaga for her enchanting ensemble. But it wasn’t the thoroughly modern magic the house presented in Paris for their most recent ready-to-wear collection (which saw Kim Kardashian take to the front row in the house’s latest thought-provoking must-have: the purposely placed shopping tag), instead Mulligan looked to house’s revered archive for inspiration.
Featuring a scalloped hem that jutted out into an oh-so-chic circumference of pleated white tulle, the look, originally masterminded by house founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, in 1951, was specially recreated for the event - the first time for the house to do so at a red carpet event. As a rather fitting tribute, the original design was created the same year as her on-screen counterpart of Felicia Montealegre, wife and muse of compose Leonard Bernstein (of which she was nominated for Best Actress in Bradley Cooper’s Maestro, of which Mulligan narrowly missed out on taking home the Best Supporting Actress award this year), were wed at Temple Mishkan Tefila.
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Paired with black opera gloves and dazzling diamond earrings courtesy of Madison Avenue’s purveyor of vintage bling, Fred Leighton, the star told Vogue of her look, ‘I think it’s my favourite dress I’ve ever worn.’ Positively dripping in Countess Jacqueline-de-Ribes-era-Balenciaga brilliance, we might just be inclined to agree.
Meanwhile, former Tatler cover star, Anya Taylor-Joy, who presented the Best Animated Short Film award at the event, too looked back to the era of elegance for her show-stopping custom Dior ensemble. With a skirt of intricately beaded ombré petals, the dress harked back to one of Monsieur Dior’s most celebrated silhouettes - the ‘Junon’ gown, first created as part of the Fall 1949 Haute Couture collection, it's beguiling beauty conjuring the ethereal opulence of Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’.
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Accessorised with a suite of icy Tiffany & Co. diamonds, the Dune: Part Two starlet oozed debutante decadence in the glistening heather-grey strapless piece, which also saw a reprisal of the look via Natalie Portman at Cannes Film Festival last year.
Other stars that vied for this vintage sumptuousness included toast of the evening, Emma Stone, in a mint-green-hued peplum design from Louis Vuitton (a trend revival officially approved by the Princess of Wales last year), Zendaya in an scintillating hourglass silhouette from Armani Privé, and Hailee Steinfeld’s stunning Elie Saab number which featured a powder blue silk scarf draped effortlessly down her back, reminiscent of Princess Grace of Monaco’s famed Edith Head To Catch a Thief dress the actress-turned-royal donned in the 1955 Hitchcock classic.
It was a night of present-day movie star perfection, peppered distinctly with the graceful style codes of yore. Sometimes looking back is the best way forward - just ask these gown-loving glamazons.
