Bologna in Winter: Why Italy’s Gastro City is Perfect Around the Holidays
If you’ve ever wanted to visit Bologna in winter, this guide will put you in the holiday spirit and keep it there til spring!
Underrated yet unmissable, the city of Bologna is a medieval melting pot of art, architecture, culture, and divine gastronomic treats.
Located in Emilia Romagna, one of the most beautiful places in northern Italy, we’ve written many posts before about all the unique things to do, see and eat in Bologna.
But did you know that winter in Bologna can be a great time to visit? We were as surprised as you might be hearing this!
This handy guide has all the details and may be just what you need to jumpstart your holiday spirit, but let’s start with why in the world you’d want to visit an Italian city like Bologna in the wintertime!
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Visiting Bologna in Winter
Bologna is always a beautiful city, but leading into the holiday season and throughout the winter, there are twinkling Christmas lights, the occasional fluffy snowfall (typically mild compared with similar latitudes in the US and Canada), and warm hearty meals to make any cold weather worth it.
In some ways, visiting Bologna in winter is not much different as you’ll find it in warmer months, in terms of activity.
The streets are still bustling from November straight through March with locals socializing in piazzas, sipping espressos at a coffee bar and eating bowls of steaming tortellini in brodo (the perfect winter comfort food).
Somehow, the colder weather doesn’t seem so bad when it’s shared outdoors with the rest of the city, and it’s a great place to light a spark for your holiday spirit before returning home for the holidays. I’d even go so far as to say the weather is nice enough for a bike tour through the city.
And with the world-famous covered porticoes (27 miles of them) stretching across the city, you can explore the magical streets and historical wonders without even giving the weather a second thought!
Bundled up for winter in Bologna
Getting to Bologna in Winter
Bologna is just an hour between its famous neighboring cities of Venice and Florence, so it’s easy to combine a trip to either or all three.
We’ve visited Bologna many times on road trips, but we love taking the train to and from Bologna, especially in winter.
Traveling by train through Europe and Italy is so easy — you can plan your trip while relaxing and taking in the sights along the way.
On our trip last winter, we took the train from Bologna to Bolzano for the Christmas markets, and it was a great way to get around.
Winter Temperatures in Bologna
Bologna’s coldest weather typically lasts for about 3 months, from December through February. The average daily temps in the city for these months range from lows around 34-38°F to highs from around 45-55°F.
I don’t know about you but that’s not all that cold to me.
You’re unlikely to have much rain in the winter months, maybe just a few days each month.
Does it snow in Bologna? Sometimes, but not often. As far as snow goes, a Bologna winter isn’t bad at all, and in most winter months it doesn’t get cold enough to freeze.
Bologna in January and February might see occasional light snows, but there’s rarely much accumulation.
Packing Essentials for Bologna Winter
As you can see in the photo above, Bologna rarely gets below freezing in the winter, so deciding what to wear isn’t too hard.
But if you’re packing light so you can leave room for souvenirs (smart thinking!), here are a few EZ packing essentials that I’d recommend:
Bologna is a cobblestone city, with many streets paved with 6-8” round rocks, and walking on them can be challenging if you don’t have comfortable, sturdy footwear. My favorite shoe to wear in Bologna — especially in winter — are my Blundstones! I say especially, because the occasional snow flurry or rain can often leave the stones wet and slippery!
My Woolx Stella leggings. These Merino wool leggings are the best I’ve ever found. They’re the perfect weight and coverage for traveling, aren’t see-through, don’t stretch out, and are easy to care for (I wore them for a week straight in Italy — even though I brought 2 other pants — and just hand-washed them twice and hung to dry).
A down, calf-length coat.
Lightweight wool hat and gloves.
Christmas in Bologna
Italy has several Christmas markets — mostly in northern Italy — where you can find this European tradition during the early winter.
While there is no official Bologna Christmas market to speak of as there is in Florence, Verona, or Bolzano, there are several little markets that dot the cobbled streets of Bologna where you’ll experience a true Christmas wonderland.
You’ll find holiday gifts and foods from France, Germany, Austria, and England in small stalls selling everything from mulled wine and traditional foods, to lovely stocking stuffers, Christmas tree ornaments, and holiday gifts.
Garlands of green, Christmas trees draped in ornaments, mulled wine, and hot chocolate can be found in every corner of these traditional markets.
If you are an ardent foodie, you will adore the flavorful assortment of cheeses, candies, sweets, and pastries that these kiosks have to offer.
The contagious merriment of Bologna holidays seems all the more vibrant in the glow of the Christmas lights and portico decorations that adorn the streets.
Stroll under the endless fairy lights that don the walls of the magnificent and iconic porticos and you’ll see just how romantic Christmas in Bologna can be!
Holiday Foods in Bologna
Nothing speaks to the Italian food culture like an Italian Nonna and her homecooked meals, and winter is a particularly good time to experience the food of Bologna, especially the traditional holiday foods of Italy!
It's exactly this kind of food love that shines through with countless dishes filling hearts with joy and ravenous stomachs with holiday delight.
Here are a few of them!
Panettone
Sweet tooth or not, you can’t walk a city block in Bologna without passing delectable treats in the window of a pasticceria. Around the holidays in particular, you’ll find pasticcerias baking homemade panettone that melts in your mouth.
Bar Pasticceria Santo Stefano is one of our favorites but that’s because we love hanging out in this part of Bologna.
Located just a stone's throw from the square of the Seven Churches, this pastry shop is a monument of love for traditional Bolognese goodies!
But there are so many pastry shops, or pasticcerias, in Bologna where you’ll find delectable pastries, mini pastries, mouthwatering cakes, warm biscuits, buttery focaccias, and rich chocolate that melts in your mouth.
You’ll also find panforte from Tuscany, marzipan from Venice and other regional treats. Be sure and ask if what catches your eye is local to Emilia Romagna or Bologna — if you’re lucky, you’ll get an earful of local food history.
There's just too much to try, and therein lies the fun of visiting Bologna in the winter!
Fresh Roasted Chestnuts
Once the weather starts to get a bit nippy, it's time to load up on the calories with roasted chestnuts served piping hot in paper cones by street vendors.
Chestnuts are traditionally roasted over an open flame in a special kind of pot called an "arrosticastagne" and savored on blustery winter nights as you roam the streets of Bologna.
Cioccolata Calda
The infamous Roxy Bar in Bologna gained its following from fans of Italian singer Vasco Rossi and is just steps away from the famous leaning towers of Bologna.
The laidback atmosphere here makes it our favorite place to relish a creamy, good old-fashioned hot chocolate, or as Italians refer to it - Cioccolata Calda.
Sit outside with a cup and warm your spirit and heart as you listen to the bell chime from the Asinelli Tower.
Gelato
You might be thinking, who eats gelato in the winter? to which I’d answer, everyone in Italy eats gelato in the wintertime! It’s a year round treat.
But that’s not the best reason to eat here in the winter.
Gelato is one of Italy’s favorite pastimes, any time of year!
Tortellini in Brodo
Can you think of anything more comforting than a bowl of homemade soup in the winter?
Well, tortellini is the most famous regional food of Emilia Romagna, and the Bolognese especially love it in chicken broth — it’s their chicken soup for the soul.
Where should you try it? Just about any traditional restaurant in Bologna will serve it.
Zampone and Cotechino
Two of Emilia Romagna’s most famous holiday foods are made from pork — what else! — and are traditionally eaten on Christmas Day, but you’ll find them around Bologna before the holidays!
Zampone is made from selected pork cuts and flavored with pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and wine, then stuffed into the front hoof of a pig and served with lentils.
Cotechino is another traditional food, and makes one of the region’s favorite sandwiches, especially in Modena.
This fresh pork sausage is similar in texture to pork roll or Taylor ham (famous in New Jersey) and made from minced cuts of pork and rind, flavored with herbs and spices, then stuffed into a natural casing.
Bologna Restaurants to Try
Osteria Santo Stefano (Corte Isolani at Piazza Santo Stefano)
Located in the square of the basilica of Santo Stefano, Osteria Santo Stefano is a typical Bolognese restaurant and a must-visit on your itinerary for its excellent dishes that showcase the flavors of the region.
Enjoy the magical Italian winter experience with delicious cold cuts, cheeses, tagliatelle al ragù, and some delightful aperitifs. The meals are balanced in color, taste, and proportion, and are of a superior quality to meet the standards of this cozy trattoria.
The staff here are exceptionally hospitable and offer fantastic service to make the dining experience all the more memorable.
Sfolia Rina
Just a short walk from the two towers on Via Castiglione is one of the best places to taste the specialties of Bolognese cuisine, especially the highly-rated tortellini.
You might have to face long queues for a table at Sfolia Rina, but it's guaranteed to be well worth the wait.
As the seasons and ingredients change, so does the menu here, which is written on chalkboards on the wall. Once you've made your choice, simply write it down on the paper provided and hand it over to a server with your name and table number. Steaming hot food will soon be sent over for you to dig into.
And if you're in the mood, pick up some of the establishment's divine handmade pasta at the counter. There are plenty of options for vegetarians too.
Mercato di Mezzo
Perfect for a quick pick-me-up as you stroll and shop, this food market in the heart of the Quadrilatero on Via Claveture offers an easy yet delicious lunch that you can enjoy in communal seating areas.
Restaurants and shops are spread out across the ground floor and sell everything from bread and pizza to pasta, meat, and cheese.
What's more, the extravagant variety of wines, espresso, and craft beer make it the ideal place to stop by for good food, good beer, a nice chat, and an aperitivo.
Shop for the Holidays
Aperitivo in the Quadrilatero, even in winter
Italians' festive spirit is amplified during the holiday season, and there's no better place to experience this than at the Quadrilatero! The Quadrilatero holds the best-kept secrets of La Grassa, the country's food capital.
Decadence fills the streets as the locals come together to hawk fresh produce, juicy fruits, warm snacks, and regional wines. Fishmongers, bakers, street food vendors, tradespersons, and craftspeople sell local specialties like meats, cheese, handmade pasta, and baked goodies at this historic city center.
Come 6 p.m., tourists and locals alike dive into the enotecas (wine bars) of the Quadrilatero to slowly sip on Aperol spritz, Campari, Prosecco, Vermouth, and more as they chatter away about their day. Pair your beverage with some chips, olives, cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano), fruit, and meat (prosciutto) for an authentic Winter in Bologna experience.
Bella Vita (Via Clavature) - As the name suggests, this family-owned restaurant promises a taste of the good life and delivers on it too! Some locally recommended dishes for tourists are the crescentina, tigelle, cold cuts, and cheeses on their well-curated cutting board. Inexpensive and homey, this is a truly delightful place to dine with a bottle of lovely wine.
Osteria del Sole - Specializing in local wine and a charming atmosphere, this ancient tavern is perfect for social butterflies to indulge in the holiday spirit (quite literally). Popular since 1465 for its simplicity, artistry, and bohemian vibe, here is where people from all walks of life rub shoulders as they drink.
Order a bottle of their Italian red or white and chatter away with loved ones as you sip on good, cold wine at extremely affordable prices. However, if you long for a bite to eat along with your drink, you'll have to bring your own food. It's a good idea to stop by the market on your way for some meat and cheese.
You could also explore another part of Bologna, the Colli Bolognesi area on a wine walking tour, which is a perfectly lovely way to stroll a city in our opinion!
Things to Do in Bologna in Winter
Stroll the UNESCO Bologna Porticoes
The longest (about 39 miles) and most number of porticoes in the world are found in Bologna. Present since the 12th century, these porticoes are made of wood, brick, stone, and concrete to provide sheltered walkways to the city's people.
An expression of the city's identity, these porticoes are places where people meet and gather for social activities despite the weather.
So much so, that they were made a UNESCO heritage site in 2021!
Portico dei Servi and the Basilica play host to the Christmas markets where handcrafted wares are sold.
But it is the world’s longest (4 km) portico, Portico di San Luca that draws the most crowds.
There are few things as memorable as walking under the porticoes, all lit up, during winter in Bologna.
Other popular porticoes include the Gothic Portico of Casa Isolani, the renaissance Portico of San Giacomo, and the old Porticato of Alemanni, which has 160 arches.
There's only one thing to say, “Venite a vederli - Come see them!”
Christmas Tree at Piazza Maggiore
Winter in Bologna is heralded by the erection of a giant Christmas tree by the Fountain of Neptune in Piazza Maggiore, the main square in the historic center.
Gather your merry travel troop and take several pictures under this mammoth tree for your holiday card or the gram.
Afterward, head to the Christmas markets in Via Altabella to pick up some last-minute gifts, knickknacks, and jewelry for your loved ones.
Or, just stroll the streets as you take in the tantalizing aroma of sweet treats and the incandescent joy of fairy lights.
Climb the Torre dell’Orologio
One of Bologna's iconic symbols, Piazza Maggiore also has its own Torre d'Accursio (clock tower) that provides spectacular views of the city from its terrace.
Climb the "staircase of the horses" as you gaze out to get a spectacular view of winter in Bologna.
Bologna’s nickname is La Dotta, la Grassa, e la Rossa, (The Learned, the Fat, and and the Red) and you will behold a sea of red rooftops over the city as it highlights the searing hue of the buildings during sunset.
It is undoubtedly one of the best ways to take in the city's architectural splendor.
Visit the Biblioteca Archiginnasio
Once a part of the University of Bologna (one of the oldest universities in the world), the Biblioteca Archiginnasio is steeped in rich history, and a visit here is worth every penny.
Located just 2 minutes from the Church of San Petronio, it costs 3 euros to enter.
There are two historical halls open for visitors, the Stabat Mater (jurists classroom) and Anathomical Theater (anatomical classroom). The rest is still in use by students and scholars.
Witness the artistry of medicine of the yesteryears in the anatomical room.
This theater, with its elaborate hand-carved wooden statues of skinned men (Spellati) and the dissecting platform, is where medical students would dissect and study corpses.
Next, head to the reading room that is lined from floor to ceiling with stunning frescoes and holds books ranging from military texts to anatomical guides. It is where Dante, Nicolaus Copernicus, Erasmus of Rotterdam, and even fashion designer Giorgio Armani studied.
There are over 7,000 coats of arms of former alumni emblazoned on the hallways - a reminder of the seat of learning that Italy once was.
A Night at the Bologna Opera
With Italy being the birthplace of the opera, it comes as no surprise that the opera house in Bologna hosts some of the most incredible ballet and symphonic performances today.
During the season, operatic concerts at Teatro Manzoni and Teatro Europauditorium bring forth sweet melodies and evocative arrangements.
The rousing pieces, exceptional orchestra, skilled artists, and technical precision of the performers make each show exciting and unique.
Enhance the magic of winter in Bologna by spending a night watching the performance of a lifetime.
Keep in mind that the performances are showcased at multiple venues as the Teatro Comunale di Bologna will be closed for renovation.
Tour Bologna’s Outstanding Museums
As you might imagine with a city this old, Bologna has a wealth of interesting museums to visit in the winter.
The Museo e Biblioteca della Musica Internazionale is a palazzo that captures the hearts of art, architecture, and music lovers alike. Pristine frescoes line the walls, high ceilings, massive staircases, and an inner courtyard which is the setting for a musical rendition from the past.
Learn about the six centuries of European musical history through relics placed inside Palazzo Sanguinetti.
There are instruments, scores, manuscripts, first editions, sheet music, and even letters of some of the greats like Padre Martini, Mozart’s and Bach’s first teacher.
The collections of Giambattista Martina include the very first printed music book (Harmonice Musices Odhecaton A) and portraits of geniuses like Vivaldi, Handel, and Mozart.
The Collezione Communo at Palazzo d’Accursio
Nestled in the heart of the Piazza Maggiore are the city's Town Hall and the culturally rich Palazzo d'Accursio. Once home to judge Accursius, the building was later developed to include other public offices.
It was established in 1336 as the seat of power for the Anziani (Government Elders), where leaders held meetings.
In the 15th century, it was remodeled by Fioravante Fioravanti to include works like Madonna with Child, a terracotta by Niccolò dell'Arca, and bronze statues of several Popes.
Situated on the second floor of the majestic Palazzo D'Accursio is Bologna's historic art museum, the Collezioni Communo d’Arte.
Suspended above the Piazza Maggiore and the statuesque Fountain of Neptune, the art collections here are sure to take your breath away.
Featuring paintings from both the Middle Ages and modern times, the exhibits speak volumes to those who like embracing the culture of the lands to which they travel.
The massive rooms are elegantly decorated with period compositions that recount the tales of the region. Priceless masterpieces are spread out across 15 rooms where 16th-century frescoes, intricate furnishings, and more illustrate the history and art of Emilia-Romagna.
The coat of arms that adorn the hall of honor (Sala Urbana), the murals in the Rusconi Room, and Sala Boschereccia's reproductions of natural landscapes are sights that will be etched in your memory for years to come.
All these pieces are also narrated via audio descriptions in a QR system, so don’t forget to bring your headphones.
Take a Pasta Making Class at Bottega Portici
If winter in Bologna has you craving some pasta, why not take the opportunity to learn from the masters themselves? A mere minute away from the two towers is the Portici Academy, a paradise on earth for Italian foodies.
From amateurs to professionals, everyone who walks through the doors of Palazzo Melchiorre Bega will be trained to master some of the best dishes of La Italia's cuisine.
The 40-hour course teaches you to make fresh pasta from scratch, roll out sheets of dough, and cut and cook it to perfection. By the end of it, you'll be a sfoglina (pasta maker)!
If you are in Bologna for a short vacation, you can opt for the Sunday smart classes. Learn to craft tagliatelle and its variants (tagliolini, pappardelle, and maltagliati), or create ricotta and Parmigiano Reggiano stuffed tortelloni in just two hours.
Once you've upgraded your pasta skills, move on to wine, chocolate, beer, or even artisanal ice cream courses. It's the best way to ensure your winter escapade in Bologna includes both tourism and high-quality culinary experiences.
Tour the Palazzo di Re Enzo
The Palazzo Nuovo (New Palace) was renamed Palazzo Re Enzo in honor of King Enzo of Sardinia, who was imprisoned within the palace walls for 23 years.
Legend says that while he was left free to wander about during the day, at night he was kept in a cage that was suspended from the ceiling.
Let this gothic tale remain fresh in your mind as you enter the courtyard and are greeted by an ancient sandstone well and the Chapel of St. Mary of Prisoners.
Move further and allow the Salone del Podestà, with its opulent halls, to transport you to a time when courts and theaters were celebrated.
Rediscover the magic of the Voltone del Palazzo Re Enzo by whispering secrets against the wall across the gallery to your loved ones.
The divine music of the Orchestra Senzaspine rings through the halls of the palace for three weekends in a musical sensation that is sure to steal your very soul.
You can access a handy audio guide enabled via QR scanning, which is a lovely addition to discovering the curiosities of the palace, like the Carroccio on the ground floor.
Before planning a visit, remember that the Palace remains open only during select events during the year and requires prior booking to visit.
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Good food, good wine, and good company are abundant during winter in Bologna, making it the perfect time to experience Italy like a true local.
We hope you now see how every moment spent in this timeless city will add to the wonderful memories you'll take back with you!