Travel

How To Do Ibiza Now, According To Vogue

From the hot new openings to hidden gems to island institutions.
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Rosie Randisi

Whether Ibiza ever went out of fashion is debatable, but there’s no question that the White Isle is currently enjoying something of a renaissance. It has witnessed a string of scene-shifting new openings in recent years – like the luxe Six Senses in Portinatx, on the island’s north coast, which unveiled its chic Beach Caves in 2022, and The Standard in the Old Town. And though Ibiza will forever be associated with hedonism, the original clubber’s paradise has much to offer a different breed of pleasure-seeker these days. This summer, a wave of new restaurants, like the Ibiza outpost of Mayfair favourite Maine, and a pop-up from Michelin star chef Nieves Barragán, is securing its position as a foodie destination, as well as a party one.

Designer Silvia Astore, who splits her time between London and her hideaway in the hills around Sant Josep de sa Talaia, has long been hooked on the free-spirited lifestyle unique to the island, and confirms it is humming with renewed energy. “There has always been a hype on the island,” she says. “However it has definitely been thriving. There are new openings constantly, and now with many more fashion-based events we are definitely seeing a different crowd starting to discover the island’s magic.” Sure enough, model (and former British Vogue cover star) Mona Tougaard, shoe designer Amina Muaddi and Rihanna’s stylist Jahleel Weaver are just some of the industry insiders to have been spotted there on trips recently.

Whether you’re hoping to immerse yourself in sound baths, superstar DJ sets, the island’s flourishing slow food movement or simply the sunshine, read Vogue’s guide to the places to know before you go.

The view from a junior suite at Six Senses Ibiza.

Stay

Within months of The Standard opening in 2022, the hotel, which overlooks the castle in the Old Town, had already played host to bright young things like actors Florence Pugh, Sheila Atim and Will Poulter, and designers Maximilian Davis and Chet Lo. Vogue’s own Rosie Vogel-Eades, global director of talent and casting, fell for the cute rooftop bar and pool when she checked in. For 2023, it’s added Casa Privada, a 14-suite rentable villa that has all the mod-cons of a luxury hotel (including a yoga studio) with added privacy – perfect for a big group trip. Sir Joan is similarly well-placed for pals looking to take advantage of the party scene: it overlooks Ibiza port and the buzzy restaurants and bars of the Old Town, and has the vibe of a stylish music exec’s office, all wood-panelled walls and music history books. (Breakfast there – a feast of nourishing salads, pastries, indulgent egg dishes and more – runs on until 1pm for those with particularly sore heads.) Meanwhile, three years after its opening, Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay remains an oasis of relaxation, still close enough to the clubs to be a party pit-stop but so pristine and serene it could be on a different planet from Pacha – especially now it’s home to its own Six Senses spa and fine dining Spanish pop-up, Gusto, from Sabor chef Nieves Barragán.

If you’re looking to get away from it all rather than dive headfirst into the heart of the action, choose one of the island’s charming agriturismos instead of a traditional resort. Can Domo is impossibly chilled, within walking distance of the beach at Cala Llonga, and something of a foodie destination in the evenings. Vogue contributor Pippa Vosper – who is among the recently converted, having visited Ibiza for the first time for a wedding – recommends Can Sastre (“chic and quiet and with the rustic decor I hoped to find on the island”), and has already earmarked Los Jardines de Palerm, a small boutique hotel in a 400-year-old finca in San José, for her next trip. Style director Poppy Kain, meanwhile, recommends booking a room with a private terrace at Atzaró: “The on-site spa is incredible, the staff are so friendly, and it has its own herb and vegetable garden,” she says.

Eat

Maine Ibiza, tucked away next to a flamingo-filled nature reserve at the southern tip of the island, is one of a number of thrilling new restaurant openings on the island this year. With a menu that spans crowd-pleasing seafood and spectacular salads (the tomato carpaccio is a must-try), as well as a killer cocktail list, the bohemian-luxe eatery is quickly becoming the spot for a party crowd looking for a place to fuel up before a big night out (DC-10 is just up the road). Zitya – launched on the site of the legendary Naif, the restaurant where the likes of Mick Jagger and Kate Moss partied the night away in the 1990s – is a leafy patio eatery serving up Rhodian dishes that span from fresh watermelon and lentil salad to indulgent desserts. And if you’re still not done with your night post-sweet treat? You can see if you can get into the invite-only finca, the restaurant’s hidden late-night watering hole.

You’ll find in-demand lunch tables at Jondal on the south of the island, where you might spy Moss at the next table as you tuck into your langoustine and fries, and El Silencio, where the kitchen is overseen by Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco. (If you do score a reservation here, linger on after lunch – it’s one of Ibiza’s best spots to watch the sunset.) Astore – whose Kandy dresses in fruity shades have fans in Lila Moss and Florence Pugh – also recommends long-standing favourite Es Xarcu, and further inland, La Paloma and Cana Pepeta. Interiors enthusiasts should check out Amalur and Macao in Santa Gertrudis, and make time to hit up the boutiques in this pretty village afterwards.

Ibiza is also awash with less sceney (and, let’s face it, less expensive) spots for a long, lazy and low-key lunch. Head to Fish Shack at Talamanca for plump, fresh prawns and cold beer, says fashion features editor Laura Hawkins, who calls it a “perfect palate cleanser” after visiting Ibiza’s polished beach clubs. Elsewhere, authentic chiringuito Ses Boques is particularly beautiful and popular with locals, while El Chiringuito is “a classic”, according to Vogel-Eades. “My favourite thing is the oyster shucker who walks from table to table,” she says. “I think he’s been there for 22 years now, an absolute Ibizan legend!”

The rooftop bar at The Standard overlooks the Old Town.

Spa

The fashion crowd has been gravitating to Six Senses since Loewe threw a party at the hotel in 2022 to celebrate its ongoing collaboration with the island’s original bohemian boutique, Paula’s Ibiza. But the real jewel in the resort’s crown? The spa, which Vogue’s European beauty and wellness director Jessica Diner name-checks as the best on the island. Its visiting practitioners include osteopath and acupuncturist Boniface Verney-Carron (who also happens to be Mr Arizona Muse), and breathwork expert Sapphire Leena, who was born and bred on the island. Explore the organic gardens after your massage and sea salt scrub – or just bliss out on one of the plush daybeds.

Do

As places to spend some quality time with your summer reading list go, they don’t get much better than Amante, near Cala Llonga. Book a lounger ahead of time and arrive early to get a good spot overlooking the stunning cove. Staff will be on hand to top up your rosé, so the only reason to move is for a dip.

Poppy Kain recommends seeking out Cala Carbo, a hidden beach that’s home to two good restaurants, one more casual than the other. “Same owner, same fish,” says Poppy. “The difference at the cheaper restaurant is that you sit on plastic chairs – but the menu is basically the same. Have a long lunch, go for a swim, and watch a pink sunset from here.”

If you’re making a day of it, pack a towel in your beach bag and hop on the ferry for the 30-minute trip to the island of Formentera (or better yet, charter your own boat: the Sir Hotel group’s 60ft Sir boat can accommodate groups of up to 12 people), a bohemian baby sister to glitzy Ibiza. Hire a bike once you get there to explore the glorious beaches – the almost Maldivian white sand of spots like Migjorn and Llevant put even Ibiza’s gorgeous coastline in the shade. When lunchtime rolls around, skip the famous but underwhelming Juan y Andrea (unless you’re on the hunt for an A-list sighting – virtually guaranteed on this terrace), and book a table at Beso Beach instead.

The outside dining space at Maine Ibiza.

Luana Failla

Shop

Poppy’s other tip? La Galeria Elefante in Santa Gertrudis, “a beautiful treasure trove of global beauty, with different rooms filled with decorations and pieces from around the world, from Indonesia to Guatemala. This is my favourite place to shop and hang out,” Poppy says.

And if you’re in need of a special outfit for a night out, make a beeline for Annie’s Ibiza in the Old Town, where Kate and Lila shop for designer vintage on family holidays. “It’s easy to lose hours rifling through the precious vintage dresses, as well as new season pieces selected by founder Annie Doble,” says British Vogue’s commerce writer Alice Cary. “When she’s not travelling, Doble is on hand to help you choose between sparkly Area looks, vintage slips and her own line of corseted minidresses. Some nights it’s open until the small hours, which is perfect in a fashion emergency – like when you make the spontaneous decision to hit the club.”

Getting there

Thought arriving by private jet was strictly for the one per cent? Not any more. Aero is a self-styled “semi-private” jet service operating between London and Ibiza. (And between Ibiza and Mykonos, if you’re really pushing the boat out.) Rather than having the plane all to yourself, and taking off at the time of your choosing, the flights are scheduled, and you’ll share the 16-seater with other small groups. With passengers paying from £990 per seat each way, it’s still a big financial leap from an economy airline ticket, but certainly more affordable than the £30,000 it would cost to charter your own PJ, Kardashian-style. Plus: no queues, no threat of lost luggage, and the on-board products are by Dr Barbara Sturm.