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Avant-garde culture, fascinating architecture, incredible food…and few tourists? This is Bologna, the capital city of the Northeastern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna. Perhaps you’ve focused on major Italian heavy-hitters like Venice, Rome, and Florence, but Bologna is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. This city houses the oldest university in Europe, the unfinished Basilica of San Petronio, 21 remaining medieval towers (beating out San Gimignano’s 13 towers), and countless cultural attractions like the MAMbo Modern Art Museum, traces of Roman ruins, the longest trail of porticos in the world (nearly 40 kilometers!), and most importantly, some of the world’s most-loved foods. In Bologna, meat-filled tortellini, tortelli, lasagna and tagliatelle al ragù rule the local culinary DNA. Lard-dotted mortadella also belongs to Bologna, but you’ll find a variety of cured meats, like prosciutto di Parma and culatello, advertised on charcuterie appetizer boards in surrounding markets. To purists, charcuterie boards are for tourists, and tortellini should be served in homemade broth, as in brodo on menus. After a visit, you’ll understand the city’s three nicknames: la grassa (the fat), la dotta (the learned) and la rossa (the red).
Here, how to properly in indulge in all of Bologna’s culinary delights:
Stroll through the food shops and stalls surrounding Mercato di Mezzo, a commercial center from the Middle Ages whose street names signify the foods that can be found there (Via delle Pescherie Vecchie means Street of the Old Fish Mongers and Vicolo dei Ranocchi, Alley of the Frogs. Yes, frogs). Stop at Simoni for a decadent board brimming with a variety of cured meats, mortadella, and local cheeses including Parmesan, and cut through the fat-heavy foods with a glass or two of local wines like bubbly Pignoletto or red Lambrusco. Want to experience snack time like a discerning local? Head across Piazza Maggiore to hidden Pigro Mortadelleria for a “panino mortazza” (slang for mortadella) paired with a glass of bubbly Franciacorta. The street food hole-in-the-wall is jammed with character, refusing to serve local Pignoletto in favor of elegant Champagne-style wines alongside mortadella sourced from the city’s last mortadella artisan, Pasquini. Next, head over to Mercato delle Erbe off Ugo Bassi and meander through the produce and artisan stands in the main alley before slipping off for a snack at the street food and drink outposts.
If you’re in the mood for a sit-down meal, try:
Franco Rossi
Fine dining service, reasonable prices, and a cozy blue-detailed décor, Franco Rossi is a gem and an institution for quality Bolognese fare. The menu is firmly rooted in tradition with signature homeruns like tortellini in brodo and lasagna and tortelli filled with ricotta.
Da Bertino
For a trip back in time to an eatery that hasn’t changed much since the ‘70s, this is the ticket. Slightly out of the main center hub, Bertino is known for its al carrello meat offerings. Order al carrello and soon a cart will be wheeled to your table where you can choose roasted, braised, or boiled meats and hearty sides like greens and potatoes.
Drogheria delle Rose
Another time-capsule eatery with a quirkier flair, this white tablecloth institution features gourmet takes on classics: Fresh tortelli is filled with local soft cheese delicacy squacquerone and tender filet is cooked in balsamic vinegar from nearby Modena.
Danilo e Patrizia
This spot is a bit outside of the city center, but it’s worth the trek—the pasta here is ethereal. The culinary team has a particular fondness for foraged edibles like seasonal mushrooms and truffles, which generously appear on the menu. The wine selection is also exceptional, but stick to local productions like Pignoletto, Sangiovese Superiore, and Lambrusco.
E’ Cucina Leopardi
If you’re feeling adventurous and thrifty, and you’re desiring something besides tortellini in brodo (it will happen), head here. At lunch, the prix-fixe menus start at just 10 Euros and include appetizers, first- and sometimes second-courses, dessert, and wine. Max out at 20 Euros if your appetite requires the full-course deal. Dishes are created on the fly based on what’s available in the kitchen and in season, and offerings often change by the hour.
Bottega Portici
This spot is essentially a pasta laboratory that rolls out delicious dishes in takeaway containers that can be consumed on-site at the café next door or at the tables outside under Bologna’s signature porticos.
Da Serghei
With spot-on traditional fare that feels a bit like a visit to grandma’s house, Da Serghei hits the spot. Go with a friend and ask for half portions in order to sample several pastas. Try their creamy lasagna, meaty tortellini in brodo (broth), gramigna (a cross between bucatini and macaroni) in sausage, and pillow-y tortelli filled with ricotta served in butter and sage sauce.
Caminetto d’Oro
Come here for a white tablecloth meal featuring refined versions of the region’s treasured cuisine. Think chef-quality preparations of Bologna’s classics like tagliatelle al ragu and lesser-known regional pastas such as passatelli (a round spaghetti-like pasta made of breadcrumbs and Parmesan) in broth and showered in local shaved white truffle, to prepared comfort food mains like bollito misto, mixed boiled meats sitting tender in precisely balanced broth with still-crunchy vegetables.
For a drink and a light bite, try:
Enoteca Storica Faccioli
This is a very elegant wine bar with an impressive selection of natural wines from across the country. They serve a delicious lunch of traditional Bolognese fare, and the board of meats and cheeses here is essential. They’re all from tiny artisan producers, down to the artisanal mortadella, which is nearly extinct.
Accà Vineria
A slightly casual wine bar known for a small curated selection of natural wines and bar snacks—try the warm crostini with melted cheeses and homemade pestos.
Camera a Sud
It appears to be a coffee shop, but they also serve quality wines and finger foods—along with plenty of books to peruse as you eat.