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In today’s fashion industry, secondhand shopping is a sport. Hard-to-find designer dresses and runway looks go fast, and securing something special that stands the test of time and represents an era of seasons past is a victory. Here, we round up our favorite vintage pieces and the best vintage fashion finds to shop before they’re gone.
This time three years ago, there was a sudden a shift in the way we got dressed. Sure, summer was around the corner. But this particular change was different—COVID vaccines had finally kicked in and leaving the house took on a new meaning. A fervor for fun was in the air, and it showed in our clothing. The popular prairie frocks of the 2010s seemingly vanished overnight, and in their place, a completely different look took over: Christopher Esber cut-out dresses, low-rise denim and skirts, and any opportunity to bare some midriff.
It’s certainly not the first time fashion reflected social trends and current events, but it marked a much-needed reset and official return to one of the most-loved eras in runway fashion: the ’90s. Still reigning supreme today—most recently, runway collections from Miu Miu, Hermès, and Alexander McQueen each touted the era’s signature low-rise pants and midriff-baring styles—trends of the 1990s show no signs of slowing down.
With its sheer, embellished dresses, gauzy skirt overlays, bralettes as tops, and fitted, unzipped jackets, Prada’s spring 1995 collection exemplifies the styles we began embracing in 2021; and this season again, with a new lease on life. (The collection itself was a dissertation on doing away with conservative dressing and the liberation that comes with shedding layers; the hallmark styles of that era will forever represent a certain freedom in fashion.)
This installment of vintage finds offers ‘90s and ‘90s-inspired pieces that celebrate the era. From Prada’s quintessential low-rise white skirt to a lace Rodarte slip dress to a cropped knit top from Interior’s Spring 2023 runway show, each embraces the spirit of that euphoric 2021 summer. Also in this edit you’ll find a handful of spring statement pieces, including the Tory Burch paneled dress that took over her Spring 2022 runway show, an equally fun Molly Goddard cotton pink dress, a pair of Khaite’s red patent Mary Janes, a Simone Rocha chiffon skirt, and a can’t-miss Phoebe Philo-era Celine dress.
Most of the treasures in this installment were found on Vestiaire Collective, which opened its doors of their Brooklyn warehouse this week to editors for an inside look at their vintage authentication process for handbags, jewelry, shoes, and clothing.
Shopping vintage is no small feat—it takes stamina and patience to find that treasure you’ve been wanting—but knowing that your piece is certified authentic can offer peace of mind. At Vestiaire, every sold item over $1,000 goes immediately to their authentication center before being shipped to the buyer. For other items, customers pay $15 for the authentication as an added service. “We have a team of 90 authenticators globally reviewing items from the tag down to the seam and exchanging information based on what they review. We work hand in hand with some top luxury brands to train our teams and some of them give us access to their authentication technology, so our knowledge and expertise is unrivaled,” says Victoire Boyer Chammard, head of our authentication. Vestiaire also recently relaunched their Archive Room, a curated edit from its sellers highlighting top-tier vintage and archival finds. This presents shoppers with a new way to peruse pre-vetted pieces.
Below is a selection of favorite finds from Vestiaire’s current collection, as well as a handful of gems on TheRealReal, eBay, and Etsy.
Summer Whites
Interior’s Spring 2023 runway show closed with the song “Where Is My Mind?” by The Pixies blaring as models marched in quintessential ‘90s minimalist looks. One of those looks, number six, was a perfect midriff-meets-midi skirt ensemble. The top is available now on Vestiaire, which pairs perfectly with a white cotton Alaïa skirt. Finish the spring look with a silver Repetto flat and classic Bottega bag—vetted by Vestiaire’s team.
Cool Colorblocking
Following the buzz of her spring 2021 fashion, Tory Burch kept up the excitement going with her spring 2022 show. The collection featured colorblocked dresses and cut-outs that shared the same sentiment of the year prior. The fan-favorite paneled dress is available now on Vestiaire Collective. Pair it with Bottega’s strappy heels and a perfect rattan bag.
Spring Fling
Speaking of celebratory dressing, no one does a modern take on frocks quite like Molly Goddard. One of her classic confection dresses is available now on Vestiaire, which pairs well with a patent red Mary Jane heel from Khaite, matching red Fendi Baguette, and Cartier statement ring (with a ruby center stone).
Lightweight Layers
Some of Vestiaire’s best-kept-secret treasures are the no-name finds, such as this vintage fringe jacket (an on-trend piece of the ‘90s and today). Wear it with a black skirt, such as Simone Rochas’ chiffon and silk number, a Marni market back, and a pair of Maryam Nassir Zadeh patent sandals.
Transitional Heroes
There’s no more quintessential ’90s look than a silk and lace slip dress. This one from Rodarte has been haunting my cart for months, but this Rodarte option with the flower is also a stunner. Wear either with a Burberry trench coat, a timeless spring essential, a pair of Jil Sander woven sandals, and a leather-band Cartier watch.
Vintage Icons
Prada’s low-rise white skirt is a no-brainer purchase when it comes to ’90s staples, and this one is a steal. Wear it with Miu Miu’s white cotton sailor top, a pair of Margiela Tabi Mary Janes, and another ‘90s icon: a Prada nylon bag.
Modern Minimalism
Last, but certainly not least, is Celine’s Phoebe Philo black and white V-neck dress. Phoebe Philo, the minimalist queen herself, perhaps understands this era of dressing better than anyone. Wear it with a pair of strappy Manolo suede heels and a Celine clasp handbag. Complete the look with Completedworks’ statement hoop earrings.
Previous monthly arrivals, below.
This week in Paris, when creative director Chemena Kamali presented Chloé’s fall 2024 collection, it quickly proved to be one of the buzziest shows of the season. Making a case for the return to 2000s bohemian chic (the poster child of the era herself, Sienna Miller, sat front row), the looks were an ode to the house and its predecessors’ all-time greatest hits. The show—heavy on billowing silks, rippling white lace, and fringed leather—served as a reminder of what makes clothing special: The old stuff, the lore, and the historical references that make getting dressed, and even following fashion at all, interesting.
This latest segment of secondhand treasures pays tribute to just that, with a look ahead to spring dressing. If there’s one timely item that feels equally nostalgic and fitting for the upcoming season, one that Chloé always mastered, it’s the empire-waist maxi dress. A perfect example is look 28 from the house’s fall 2020 collection, a quintessential Chloé number worth scooping on eBay. Speaking of ideal empire silhouette dresses, this one from Celine’s fall 2017 collection is also on the market at Vestiaire. To bring it back to fashion lore: Chloé and Celine’s overlap in aesthetic is no coincidence—Philo was Chloé’s designer from 1997-2006, and Chloé’s current creative director, Kamali, worked under Phoebe Philo in the early 2000s. Proof that what goes around really does come back around.
Adding to the return to our bohemian roots, this edit also includes a Marni sheer chocolate empire-waist midi dress (it’s giving 2000s Mischa Barton) and a can’t-miss Prada find: a sheer, beaded number that has been in my The Real Real obsessions for months.
Below, enjoy these bohemian finds plus a mix of vintage florals—including a pair of Gucci wide-leg pants, a daisy-stitched Fendi baguette, and a Kelly green Molly Goddard cardigan. The star of the selection? Prada’s 2002 PVC runway raincoat, just because those spring flowers most likely will come with some April showers. Shop them all while they’re still here.
Spring Showers
If one has to go out in the rain, ideally it happens while wearing Prada’s PVC translucent runway raincoat. Found on Poshmark, it’s the one item that can make a rainy day feel far less gloomy. Pair it with a swingy skirt, like Margiela’ lace-trim iteration (an item you’ll wear season after season), and a perfect chunky knit from Dries. Finish the look with a sleek flat, like this highly-coveted pair from The Row (found at an ideal price, too).
Ethereal Elegance
Marni’s sheer chocolate dress, coming in at under $100, is an item that will surely sell fast on The Real Real. It’s the perfect dress to wear in-between seasons while still staying ahead of the trends. Elevate this number with a pair of strappy sandals, like this silver pair from Dior. A pair of silver Sophie Buhai hoops round out the look. Give the ensemble a true vintage edge with a rare handbag find: Christian Dior’s chocolate ostrich Double Saddle Bag.
In Full Bloom
It always comes back to Miranda Priestly’s famous line: “Florals, for spring? Groundbreaking.” But when those flowers take shape in a pair of Gucci’s 2017 flair floral pants from Alessandro Michele, they could actually be groundbreaking. Make it a monochromatic look with a brown trench coat, another spring essential, like a felt-collar iteration from Burberry (this one comes in at an especially competitive price). Hereu’s brown leather block-heeled Mary Jane’s give this look a touch of height. Go full garden in bloom with one of Fendi’s famed floral-embroidered baguettes.
New Horizons
If you’re jetting off for one last warm escape before spring’s arrival, here’s a look to consider. Chloe’s 2020 empire-waist, spaghetti-strap maxi gown is a timeless number that simultaneously masters boho chic. Pair it with statement silver jewelry, like Tiffany’s silver cuff necklace, and a pair of platform sandals. Add color to the ensemble with a vintage staple: a Molly Goddard Kelly green flower-embroidered cardigan.
Lighter Layers
Speaking of maxi dresses, here’s a vintage find you won’t want to skip. From Phoebe Philo’s 2017 Celine runway collection, this elastic and jersey dress is one that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. For more casual outings, pair it with a vintage Polo Ralph Lauren denim jacket, silver Lana hoop earrings, and strappy Saint Laurent sandals.
Warmer Nights
Last, but certainly not least, is the floral maxi moment we’ve all been waiting for: Prada’s blue beaded and sequin dress, found on The Real Real. Whoever swipes this number (at a price drop, too) is a true vintage winner. Make it a true look of secondhand luxury by wearing it with a Louis Vuitton late 1990s jacket, a pair of Chanel black mesh mules, and an Elsa Peretti for Tiffany cuff.
Previous monthly arrivals, below
In with the new… and the old. This year’s first batch of recent vintage arrivals is an unlikely mix of layers—think rare 1990s runway dresses paired with vibrant velvet and shearling outerwear of the 2010s found on Etsy, The Real Real, Vestiaire, 1stDibs, and Poshmark.
A Prada shearling-trimmed shawl collar coat from the Fall/Winter 2014 collection sets the tone for this particular edit. A Penny Lane-esque number, this runway hit is Miuccia Prada’s take on the costumes in director Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 1972 film, The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. Not to mention, it’s a colorful coat certain to make winter feel far less bleak. Speaking of color, a quilted floral Dries Van Noten coat from the Fall/Winter 2020 collection—a deco-inspired mix of jewel-toned layers—adds another dose of vibrancy to any coat rotation. Or, for a more classic take on the season, a Ralph Lauren red plaid coat also gets the job done. Each of these pieces is about having fun with getting dressed despite dropping temperatures.
In addition to statement outerwear, new secondhand finds include transitional treasures, such as a Comme des Garçons black sheer embroidered dress from the Fall/Winter 1995 collection, a Prada A-line knit and lace LBD from the Fall/Winter 2010 collection, and a Chanel navy and black ribbon dress from the Fall/Winter 2006 collection—all of which can be worn with tights and a coat in the winter and solo in the spring and summer. Paired with each find are the shoes and accessories to complete the entire vintage look. Shop all of the latest arrivals (while they’re still on the market!) below.
The star of the show, Prada’s Penny Lane 2014 shearling coat, pairs well with Christopher John Rogers’ striped wide-leg pant for a maximalist look. A paired-back, brown Bottega bag is the go-with-anything companion you’ll wear for years to come (the leather will get more beautiful with time) and a matching pair of Gucci lace-up combat boots.
For a more feminine feel, Comme des Garçons’ sheer embellished dress is a fancy first layer suitable for any occasion. Dress it up with Khaite’s patent leather pumps (these sell out fast), a pair of Georg Jenson’s quintessential silver stud earrings, and a classic black Fendi Baguette (this one is from Karl Lagerfeld’s time at Fendi in the 2000s).
An investment piece to be enjoyed by generations to come, Chanel’s 2006 ribboned cocktail dress is a year-round find. Style it with Celine’s crimson red clasp shoulder bag (a Phoebe Philo-era, specifically 2017, find), a Dior embellished moon necklace from the 1980s, and Marni’s black wool crystal-embellished pumps.
It’s no question that the Dries 2010 velvet quilted floral coat is the star of this vintage winter round-up. If there’s one thing I’d scoop fast, this is it. Lean into the velvet with a Vivienne Westwood velvet clasp bag (be sure to peek at the inside of this one), a pair of Saks Potts’ bestselling brown leather pants, and Junya Watanabe’s square toe leather ballet flats.
If there’s a second item I’d scoop fast on this list, it’s Prada’s LBD from the Fall 2010 runway collection—the epitome of a timeless investment that can be worn everywhere. For a dressed-down, cold-weather urban look, wear it with a suede Balenciaga city bag and a pair of Jil Sander riding boots (another crowd-favorite). Add a hint of color and glam to the look with Dior’s crystal clip-on earrings.
Last, but certainly not least, is one of winter’s most necessary items: a Ralph Lauren second layer. This particular coat is a classic Americana essential. Wear it with a pair of Sacai pants and Prada’s chunky Chelsea boot. Top it off with another timeless piece: A Tiffany chain link bracelet.
